master cylinder replacement

Rebuilding, adjusting, maintaining & alternatives

master cylinder replacement

Postby snoopy1972 » Mon Dec 24, 2018 10:12 pm

hi guys and gals.
i think i may have master cylinder issues. I had my front brakes replaced, new cylinder drums shoes, flexi hoses and new copper pipes. it passed brake test on mot, but still has a excessive pedal travel. the brakes were adjusted. charles ware say the m/cyl at fault.
my question is this.... when removing the master cylinder from the chassis leg, wot is the best way step by step?
do i have to muck about with removing the brake pedal/clutch pedal? Or is it a case of disconnecting the pipe at the back, bolts in the chassis leg, then lift out?
first time novice here lol
snoopy1972
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Posts: 22
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England (en) UK Devon (dz)

Re: master cylinder replacement

Postby 200272 » Wed Dec 26, 2018 9:26 am

Hi the job is not as bad as it looks!!!

No need to mess about with the pedals.

I unbolt it from the chassis first then slide the push-rod out after disconnecting the return spring.
Then slide the master cylinder forward to access the rear pipe connection, undo that being careful not to lose the copper washers.

Job done.
The Bean: 1972 2002tii (ish), 5speed E21 O/D, 6 series Recaro interior.
Green Bean V8 M60 conversion

Sideways!
200272
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Posts: 256
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Location: London


Re: master cylinder replacement

Postby emjay » Sun Dec 30, 2018 4:02 pm

When it comes to removing the rear brake line, I find it easier to just loosen the tubing fitting enough to allow rotation and obtain full removal by removing the banjo bolt. The real benefit is at reassembly. It's a lot easier to get the banjo bolt started correctly (straight) than the smaller line fitting. Either way rotation is just half a flat at a time when a wrench is needed.
emjay
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Joined: Wed Oct 09, 2013 7:02 pm
Location: Eastern Pennsylvania, USA



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