Engine oil.

Side valve, 803, 948, 1098., 1275 and Vizard mods

Engine oil.

Postby MogDJ » Thu Mar 08, 2018 9:19 pm

Hi guys,
Going to give the engine an oil change and was wondering what your thoughts are on using a semi synthetic oil in it.
The engine is a rebuilt 1275 out of a Marina, which hasn't done hardly any miles due to the Pick Up being restored, but thought it prudent to replace the oil before it hopefully goes on the road soon.
Any views / comments would be gratefully received.
Cheers
Dave.
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Re: Engine oil.

Postby 58 MOGGY » Thu Mar 08, 2018 9:23 pm

I would keep on a mineral oil for about 500miles,then change to semi or full synthetic,gives engine chance to bed in


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Re: Engine oil.

Postby plastic orange » Fri Mar 09, 2018 5:53 pm

Any good 20/50 is what should be used. Halfords Classic is ideal.

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Re: Engine oil.

Postby cococola » Fri Mar 09, 2018 6:30 pm

I always stick to Halfords Classic oil with no problems.
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Re: Engine oil.

Postby accarobinson » Sat Mar 10, 2018 5:08 pm

The seals on an A series are not designed to cope with semi or full synthetic and the tolerances are not that tight so you are wasting your money with high potential to leak oil with no engine benefit.

I always use Morris (who else for a Morris??) motorsport/competition 15/50W oil in my tuned 1275cc Mogster. Thin for a decent start up and then thick when hot and quality stuff.
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Re: Engine oil.

Postby Monty-4 » Tue Mar 13, 2018 1:25 pm

I'm eperimenting with the (horrifically expensive) Millers 20-60W semi-synthetic in my engine and it doesn't leak, but it was only rebuilt six months ago so all new seals, etc.

If my engine blows up, wears prematurely or starts leaking I'll be sure to moan about it on here. :)
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Re: Engine oil.

Postby geezer » Tue Mar 13, 2018 4:44 pm

I have had nothing but bad experiences with synthetic oil. Synthetics are great in 2 cycle engines, just not in 4 cycle engines. Just my 2 cents. Be prepared for an engine that will never stop using oil and will create a whole host of new leaks. If you must use synthetic oils give the engine enough time to get fully broken in.
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Re: Engine oil.

Postby plastic orange » Fri Mar 16, 2018 1:56 pm

Use what was recommended when engine was built and you won't go far wrong. Modern engine - modern oils. I use Mobil 1 in my modern Chevy V8's and my lexus without using or leaking a drop, but use 20/50 in my Rover powered minor, again without probs. But i'm sure if i used the mobil 1 in the rover engine it would start leaking.

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Re: Engine oil.

Postby MogDJ » Fri Mar 16, 2018 9:31 pm

Many thanks guys for all the comments and advice. I think I will stick with the recommended mineral oil, so that I minimise any issues with leaks etc, hopefully!
Off to Halfords in the morning.
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Re: Engine oil.

Postby Pete Bags » Tue Mar 26, 2019 4:33 pm

I have a re-built 1089 engine, with a fast road cam and HIF38 carb - probably only gives an extra 10 HP, but so far I'm really pleased with the extra, much welcome performance. I have now covered around 3,000 miles since the rebuild, and am about to change to Millers 20-50 fully synthetic. I am not worried about leaks, as the specification is still 20-50, so it has the same viscosity at good old Halfords 20-50 mineral. The Millers also has a high Zinc content and other 'nano technologies' (whatever they are!), so is going to be kind on the cam lobes and other areas of high wear 'n tear. Yes, it is more expensive - perhaps £60 instead of £20, but I'm happy to pay the difference for a modern oil that offers enhanced protection to my engine - I want to be driving my car for many years to come, and the difference in cost is pretty much only the cost of a full tank of fuel.

Finally, I have been recommended to use Millers by a world class engineer, who not only drives classic cars, but rebuilds and services Rolls Royce Merlin engines used in many of the Spitfires currently flying in the UK, so he does know a thing or two about this stuff!

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