Modern brake booster/master-cylinder to Morris Minor adapter

Please share with us all, your guides on how to ...
Warweezil wrote: This is project 1 for the car as it currently has no brakes. If I can get it built and installed temporarily I can move the car more easily and can refit the unit after the underbonnet paint is done - some way down the road

Ok it got bumped (probably) to job2 as I want to try to get some of the corrosion sorted before the wet Welsh winter is upon us. Discovered today we actually have a metal folder at work - so thats going to be getting some use :D
The voices in my head may not be real..... but they have some damned good ideas :)
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PostThis post was deleted by Warweezil on Wed Jul 30, 2014 10:05 pm.
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Kevin O; You, Sir, are a real designer, engineer, and top-notch chap! Years since I have seen proper drawings like yours, and in real dimensions too :D . Many thanks for the huge efforts you made to design and spell out this excellent modification! Had vague thoughts along these lines in my head for years,but if not for you, it would have just remained a "pipe dream" as my Mog is my daily driver and so doesn't get much experimental time allocated to it!
Err... Now where was I?
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Seriously! What a load of work !!! Well done, and great drawings and description...but in the unlikely event I ever NEED a booster, I'll just use a remote one..... ;)

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If you were doing a complete rebuild though this option gives you dual circuit brakes yet retains the original pedals.

I have not seen any other option that does that.

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Thanks for all the kind words.
I know this idea is not for everyone. I just think it too good of an idea not to post it so some people could use it.

Yes there are holes in the information, I was assuming that the obvious items like keeping the actuating shaft lubricated didn't need to be addressed.
I have built cruder and simpler versions of this idea and they have served me well, but if I was to make this adapter for anyone this is the design I would use.
The only failure points I see on this design are the welding and bolting to the body, so build it safe.

Yes it was a lot of work, making the bracket was the easy part for me. The write-up and photos was difficult in making sure all the information is there and using the correct picture that shows the information.
The challenge was getting the 10 parts posted without someone replying.

I like the look of the original brake and clutch pedals.

I do have two more "How To's" in the works.

Kevin O.
I like my cars just like my women, old, lumpy and all painted up.
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Thanks Kevin a lot of hard work just posting this up.

Don't worry about members posting whilst doing this sort of thing as things can always be edited out. If you feel at a later date something needs editing just give one of the Mods a shout and we'll change it.

Anything like this is not for everyone but it's good to have an option. Needless to say they do it at their own risk etc. ;)
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Thank you Kevin, You have put a lot of time and effort into this. With your permission I would like to include it in the 'How To Guides' section so that it doesn't get buried in the future.
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I did consider asking the Mod Squad for assistance on posting in bulk then decided to post at 2 am your time.
I figured that I only had to worry about Big Al dragging his furry feet home from the pub at closing time. :drunken:

Yes do include it in the "How to Guides" if that keeps the information current.

I like my cars just like my women, old, lumpy and all painted up.
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What an absolutely brilliant concept, and so neatly executed. If I feel the need to install a booster (split circuit brakes are on the cards) this is how I shall do it. I was trying to come up with a way to do this whilst retaining the original pedals (I don't like pendant pedals, I believe the pivot should be as close as possible to the driver's heel), but failed.
Just a couple of comments, firstly, would it be possible to eliminate the bends in the pull rod? These would tend to straighten out under tension leading to lost motion and a "spongy" feel to the pedal. Was this detectable in practice, I wonder? One way would be to put the cross shaft through the chassis leg level with the pedal shaft, but further forward, just ahead of the suspension eye bolt and have a straight pull rod passing below the bolt. The actuating lever for the master cylinder could then pass up through a slot in chassis leg capping plate. The mounting bracket for the master cylinder/booster could then be welded direct to the chassis. The whole lot would be more rigid and the fabrication simpler. Can anyone think of any snags? The downside, of course, would be more bodywork mods. Nothing that couldn't be reversed if one wanted to revert back to standard, of course.
Unfortunately, I won't be able to try any of this anytime soon, as I have several months, if not a year or two, of bodywork repairs ahead of me, but will keep you posted if I do go ahead.
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Thank You Kevin!! I saw your earlier forum post back in 2013 we had a small conversation about this. I got a similar fixture built based on your design!!! Since I was abroad for studies I couldn't install it, but now I'm back on restoring the car!

This is my grandfather's vehicle and I've been working on mechanical and electrical work after the mechanic we hired bailed out (he didnt appreciate me going through the workshop manuals ). The simple job of adding morris marina calipers ended up in quite a lengthy set of jobs and thinking!

Mockup with some wood and cardboard !

Finished item, I'm thinking of replacing the smaller actuator arm with something bit beefier, and I'm a little skeptical about the setscrews only arrangement, gotta do the math and see!

Now both these were taken two years ago, I got bogged down in finding a flaring tool that could do copper+nickle tubing (kunifer), I ended up building that too. Hopefully I'll be able to properly mount the fixture soon and test it out!
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