Modern brake booster/master-cylinder to Morris Minor adapter

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Modern brake booster/master-cylinder to Morris Minor adapter assembly. RHD Bolt in. Part 1

Due to many requests for the information to fabricate this right hand drive booster to Morris bracket assembly…………….
This was my idea…..First is the sketch I drew 15 + years ago when I was learning Solid Modelling Cad.

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I picked this booster because it was short in length 12 inches and the vacuum pot was 6.5 inches in diameter.

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The bracket is based on the dimensions of this particular brake booster, a late 90's early 2000 Suzuki Swift.
Other booster assembles can be used but you will have to revise the drawings to fit the dimensions of the booster you choose.

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It had to fit between the engine and inner fender of the Morris, there is about ½' clearance between the inner fender and starter / oil filter / canister.

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As shown the finished assembly sitting under the bonnet of a Left hand drive car to show the clearance issues with the engine installed.
And then I used my convertible with no engine for the final fit up, photos and to get the actuating rod dimension.

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I fabricated this bracket a few days ago to prove out the sketches I drew back in 2011 when I made the left hand version that I posted in " How I made mine stop"

Then I redrew the sketches by hand to what you will now see.
Hopefully I didn't miss anything.
I am not including an assembly sketch, that is what the photos are for.
If it does not make sense please ask.

And if your fabrication skills are not up to this level, please get someone who is skilled or qualified to build it.
The last thing I want is you to be hurt by this idea.

And No I will not make one for you. The time it requires to fabricate this adapter out weighs any reasonable price I could put on it.

Following is the 10 part build sequence with the sketches and a photo diary of the fabrication.

Kevin O
I like my cars just like my women, old, lumpy and all painted up.
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Kevin O
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Modern brake booster/master-cylinder to Morris Minor adapter assembly. Bolt in.Part 2

The layout and fabrication to the bracket sides.
Both the left and right sides are the same except the right side has a 1" notch out of one bottom corner.

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I have scribed the lines on the 14 gauge steel and the remarked them with a felt tip marker so you cant see them in the photos.

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First I punched holes in this rectangle / booster clearance hole.

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Next I cut out the section between with an small angle grinder.

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And then finished it up with a file.

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Time to drill the pilot holes for the actuator shaft bushing and booster mounting studs.

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10 mm hole for the booster studs.

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And 1 1/8" hole for the actuator shaft bushing. the location of this hole is important for the alignment of the bushings from side to side.

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Left and right sides as per sketch. Note the 1" cut out on the right side.

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Kevin O
I like my cars just like my women, old, lumpy and all painted up.
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Kevin O
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Modern brake booster/master-cylinder to Morris Minor adapter assembly. Bolt in. Part 3.

The left and Ride side bracket sketches.
These two sketches are the same layout as the previous but show the 90 degree bends.

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Placement in the sheet metal brake is important, the actuator shaft bushing hole must be in the same location on both sides after the flange has been bent. Left side bracket shown.

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Also confirm that you are bending the flange the correct direction. Many times in the past I have done all the layout, punched the holes only to bend the flange the wrong direction. So be warned.
Right side.
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Second bend right side.

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This is what they should look like when your done bending.

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Test fit onto the booster. This is what the rectangle hole is for, clearance for the booster.
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Kevin O
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Kevin O
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Modern brake booster/master-cylinder to Morris Minor adapter assembly. Bolt in. Part 4

Booster bracket front plate made from 14 gauge rolled rolled steel.

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Cut out on the bandsaw.

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Layout of the 100mm bolting circle and centre hole.

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Drilling of the 2.5" centre hole.

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Test fit onto the booster.

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Kevin O
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Modern brake booster/master-cylinder to Morris Minor adapter assembly. Bolt in. Part 5

Actuators arms and bushing Sketches
The sketch show a quantity of 2 bushings, reality you need to make 4.

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After cutting the 1 1/8" round stock to 1 " lengths I bored the centre hole to ¾" on the metal lathe.

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Next was to broach the 3/16" keyway into one of the bushings using a 3/16 broach and an arbor press.

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The finished bushings.

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Here are the two arms made from 1" x ¼" flat bar, the short one with a 5/16" hole and the long one 10mm.

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Arms TIG welded to the bushings, confirm that you weld the broached bushing to the long arm with the 10mm hole.
Not shown, I tack welded the 3/16" key into the broached keyway, why you may ask? When you assemble the booster actuator arm to the shaft inserting the key is painful.

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Kevin O
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Kevin O
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Modern brake booster/master-cylinder to Morris Minor adapter assembly. Bolt in. Part 6

Fabrication of the actuator shaft and rod clevis.

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After cutting the ¾" round bar to length I turned the end of it to ½" on the metal lathe.

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Next was to thread it ½"-13, you can use a ½"-13 die.

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Time to cut the 3/16" keyway. clamped in the milling machine with a 3/16 end mill.

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Finished keyway 3/16"wide, 3/32" deep, 2 ¼" long.

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On to the clevis, after cutting to length bore the 5/16" hole on one side all the way through.

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And then drill the hole on the end for the threads, drill bit size "Q" for ⅜"-24.

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Next I cut the slot in the clevis in the milling machine using a 3/8" end mill.

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Time to thread the end hole ⅜"-24, I clamped the clevis in the vice and used my tap guide to start the threading. I use the guide to keep the tap at 90 agrees to the work, not easy to do free hand, at least not for me.

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I like to radius the end of the clevis, first I notched the corners with the bandsaw.

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Then finished the radius the the disc sander.

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Finished product, yes you can purchase them, I just don't know where.
The important part of the clevis for this application is the length of the slot, it is for clearance of the brake pedal.

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Although not on the sketch I finished the clevis on the lathe.

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Kevin O
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Modern brake booster/master-cylinder to Morris Minor adapter assembly. Bolt in. Part 7

The base plate is straight forward in fabrication.

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The holes and bends laid out.

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The ¼" and ¾" hole drilled.

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On to the first bend.

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Then the second bend.

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And the last.

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Finished piece. This one is not the base I used on the bracket I didn't photograph the one I used during fabrication. I didn't have a sketch of the base for right hand drive.

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Kevin O
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Modern brake booster/master-cylinder to Morris Minor adapter assembly. Bolt in. Part 8 Actuator Rod

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The material is ⅜" dimeter cold rolled steel.

The actuator rod is 14.5" long and is threaded ⅜"-24 at both ends.

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There are two 10 degree bends 3 " in from each ends

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Also install jam nuts backing the clevis.

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Please note that the pictures don't represent the sketch as drawn. I moved the bend locations after it was made.

Kevin O
I like my cars just like my women, old, lumpy and all painted up.
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Kevin O
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Modern brake booster/master-cylinder to Morris Minor adapter assembly. Bolt in. Part 9.

Some assembly required?


Bolt the two sides and the end plate to the booster.

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Fit the bushings actuator shaft and both arms into the sides and centre equally. Be sure that there is a small gap between each bushing.

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Tack weld the bushings to the side plates.

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Remove the actuator shafts and arms and….
Fully weld the bushings to the side plates.

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Next weld the pedal actuating arm to the actuator shaft. Make sure the keyway is 180 degrees from the arm.

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Both the shaft and actuating arm have been beveled for welding.

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Nicely TIG'd together. Not shown is that the bushing was welded on both sides to the shaft.

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Time weld the four pieces together, I used a spot welder. A MIG or TIG is also good.

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Kevin O.
I like my cars just like my women, old, lumpy and all painted up.
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Modern brake booster/master-cylinder to Morris Minor adapter assembly. Bolt in. Part 10. Fit up to car.

I am using my Convertible for the fit up. It does not have an engine installed so the photos should be clear.

This is where it sits, all the back to the bulkhead and….

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Right up next to the inner fender.

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This is the location where the actuator rod penetrates the bulkhead.

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I removed the booster and actuator shaft so there is clear access to the mounting holes.

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Transfer the mounting hole to the body, I used a felt tip marker and a scriber.

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The drilled ¼" mounting holes in the body.

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The actuator rod hole is 1-⅛" diameter and located as shown.

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This grommet is made for sealing tubing and pipe that pass through bulkheads.
It is made by Kennard Industries, St. Louis, Missouri USA PN 500.

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¼-20 x 1" lg bolts in place.
Test fit to check the accuracy of the drilled holes. all mounting hardware should be Grade 8.

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Actuator rod assembled to Morris brake pedal using 5/16"- 18 x 1 3/4" lg grade 8 bolt with Nylock nut.
I use the long bolt so the brake pedal hole is on the shank of the bolt and not the threads then cut off the excess thread that sticks through the nylock nut.
The same treatment on the booster side.

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All bolted up.

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This is as far as I am going to take this project.

Like I said, hopefully I didn't miss anything. I sure I will here.

How you want to plumb it up is your call, I will not offer any ideas.
I have done spilt front to rear and all together as one. Both worked for me?????

Also build it strong and safe, I don't want to be responsible for poor workmanship or quality.

I designed it and know what it is support to look like, It may be obvious to me if it is not clear…... ask.

Done!

Kevin O
I like my cars just like my women, old, lumpy and all painted up.
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Excellent detailed post.

I can understand the work that went into designing it, building it, and preparing the post too.

Many thanks for taking the time to share it.

Sean.
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As Sean says, great detail in both design and in the write up.

John
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Very kind of you to share your great detailed plans and step by step illustrated instructions Kevin, thank you. (Do yo have any other great ideas/modifications you have done/planned for your Minors?)
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Well done that man for sharing with us, Excellant,

thank you,

Alan,
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When its done its done (for now)
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Hi. Got your PM and looked here - I was not disappointed. Thank you for sharing your hard work and expertise. I think this will be the subject of much conversation at work this week, and IF I get away early enough I will pop into the local engineering shop and see about procuring the materials.

This is project 1 for the car as it currently has no brakes. If I can get it built and installed temporarily I can move the car more easily and can refit the unit after the underbonnet paint is done - some way down the road
The voices in my head may not be real..... but they have some damned good ideas :)
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