MORRIS MIATA MX-5

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Morryarte
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Re: MORRIS MIATA MX-5

Post by Morryarte »

I would be a little careful about "just running a wire into the loom for the earth". All of the metal body,chassis, bumbers etc will probably be a common ground but that may not necessarily be battery negative. Connecting ground to the negative may cause problems with the CPU or the lamp relay which may switch both live and negative supplies to the spots. It may be better to isolate the metal of the spot lamps or at least work out a way of getting plus and minus to the bulbholder without sending it to ground through the spot lamp bodies. I dont have access to the Miata wiring diagram which would reveal the actual principals used. As you are now using a sealed beam unit then the glass should isolate the wiring and you will only have the 2 wires instead of the 3 you probably had before. Therefore, you have actually solved the problem and dont need to read any of the above.
Great project, I love it.


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texas mongrel
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Re: MORRIS MIATA MX-5

Post by texas mongrel »

You are correct Morryarte; the Miata uses a common supply to both main and dipped. The dip beam bulb then runs to ground, but the high beam ground runs to the headlight switch. I considered trying to totally isolate the spotlamp body and then ground it through the switch, but eventually decided to use the sealed beam which, as you point out, uses a wire from the bulb to grpund it. Luckily the spots are 7" same as the sealed beams. The only issue I'm dealing with is that the sealed beam is a little thicker than than spotlight lens, so the mounting clamp is tricky to fit correctly and hold the unit into its housing. I think a litte trimming and grinding here and there should fix this. You go out into the workshop thinking "a couple of hours to finish all the wiring" and end up taking a couple of days!



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texas mongrel
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Re: MORRIS MIATA MX-5

Post by texas mongrel »

All headlight issues now resolved, and I finally admitted defeat and went for contactors for the electric windows. Only problem here is that I wonder if I'm losing current or something through these things, as the windows are now reluctant to go up and down all the way and run very slowly. I need to trouble-shoot this at some point: maybe the battery is low, or they'll work better when the engine's running and putting in a charge?. All wiring is now finished, including the interior light, which I stole from the Mazda. I love the Morris unit, but mine was really tatty and discolored.

Off to upholstery tomorrow!
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rebuild-156 electric window contacts.JPG
rebuild-156 electric window contacts.JPG (397.46 KiB) Viewed 1778 times
rebuild-156 electric window contacts.JPG
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Original image recording time:
2014:02:17 17:47:58
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Mon Feb 17, 2014 5:47 pm
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ruairidh
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Re: MORRIS MIATA MX-5

Post by ruairidh »

Very good like the contact idea. :D


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texas mongrel
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Re: MORRIS MIATA MX-5

Post by texas mongrel »

Question: what holds the bottom door seal on? Its the one that fits into a metal channel and goes right on the lower outside edge of the door. The rubber is a t-section that fits into the channel with a lip about 1" long. I have new rubbers and channels from ESM, but don't see any holes in either the channel or the door sheet metal. Do I just use screws every so often? Is there a magic trick to this?



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plastic orange
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Re: MORRIS MIATA MX-5

Post by plastic orange »

I'm sure they are spot welded on from the factory. A lot of folk just leave them off. I have 2 cars with them off and the rest with them on and have never noticed a difference.

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ruairidh
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Re: MORRIS MIATA MX-5

Post by ruairidh »

I noticed when fixing bottom of drivers door that the repair panel is missing the channel. I don't have them on the pick up and notice no difference. :-)


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texas mongrel
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Re: MORRIS MIATA MX-5

Post by texas mongrel »

Thanks for the info Guys. Having already paid for the stuff, I put them on using six pop rivets per channel, about 7/8" in from the outside edge.



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texas mongrel
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Re: MORRIS MIATA MX-5

Post by texas mongrel »

well, whilst the car is at upholstery, I'm finishing off miscellaneous bits and pieces. Today's job was to make a hybrid windscreen wiper drive: I took the wiper gear box from the Morris and the electric wiper motor from the Miata and, using an adaptor plate, joined them together. To make it all work, I took the shaft with the bell crank from the Morris and had it welded and machined onto the splined drive shaft out of the Miata motor. Amazingly enough the shafts are within 8thou" of being the same size, so getting it all to work was pretty straightforward. The benefit I have from this mash-up is that its got the original look on the outside, but has two-speeds, intermittent, and wash-wipe capability same as the Mazda. The big hole you can see in the side of the Morris gearbox is where the original motor sat - I cleaned up the casting a little and sealed the big hole with silicone. The guy who machined the shaft is currently machining a new horn push for me that will incorporate the cloisonné badges I made up last year.
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rebuild-157 wiper motor shaft.JPG
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rebuild-157 wiper motor shaft.JPG
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Original image recording time:
2014:02:22 07:49:03
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Sat Feb 22, 2014 7:49 am
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4.28 mm
Shutter speed:
1/20 Sec
F-number:
f/2.4
ISO speed rating:
50
Whitebalance:
Auto
Flash:
Flash did not fire, compulsory flash mode
Camera-manufacturer:
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Camera-model:
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Exposure program:
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Metering mode:
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rebuild-158 wiper motor and gearbox.JPG
rebuild-158 wiper motor and gearbox.JPG (300.95 KiB) Viewed 1671 times
rebuild-158 wiper motor and gearbox.JPG
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Original image recording time:
2014:02:24 18:10:18
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Mon Feb 24, 2014 6:10 pm
Focus length:
4.28 mm
Shutter speed:
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F-number:
f/2.4
ISO speed rating:
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Flash fired, compulsory flash mode
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TeHoro
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Re: MORRIS MIATA MX-5

Post by TeHoro »

That's a good trick with the wiper motor!



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texas mongrel
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Re: MORRIS MIATA MX-5

Post by texas mongrel »

Some progress, plus a promise that all interior work will be finished mid-next week. The picture shows the carpet for the rear part of the car, but they've actually also finished the seat upholstery too. You'll see that I also had them put carpet on the inside of the rear doors. So far, so good. Currently struggling with the headliner - I decided to let them do it rather than having a go myself. Once its home there'll be installation of all the glass, plus a few punch-list items and then my three-year odyssey will be complete!
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rebuild-159 rear carpet installed.JPG
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rebuild-159 rear carpet installed.JPG
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2014:03:13 16:50:59
Image taken on:
Thu Mar 13, 2014 4:50 pm
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4.28 mm
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f/2.4
ISO speed rating:
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Big Al
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Re: MORRIS MIATA MX-5

Post by Big Al »

Very smart!

Using carpet on the rear doors solves one problem of hiding the heated rear window wires. Will you be adding door stays?


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texas mongrel
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Re: MORRIS MIATA MX-5

Post by texas mongrel »

Exactly right about hiding the wires!

Steve Foreman recommended those new-fangled telescopic door stays, so I bought a pair, will fit once Dorris is back home.

Silly question; on the metal corner brackets at the back top corners of the woodwork there's a little screw, probably an 8 or 10BA that's supposed to poke through the upper wood capping rail - what's it for?



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Mazdav8
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Re: MORRIS MIATA MX-5

Post by Mazdav8 »

Hi Texas mongrel, I am intent on a project car on the same lines as your traveller/Mx5 conversion. I have a vey sound Minor two door, and a donor 92 MX5. From the pictures you uploaded back in 2011, I see the front sway bar is attached to the new RHS chassis rail. Have you dispensed with the MX5 front subframe altogether? From my tentantive eyeballing, the front SF could be fitted to a suitable designed chassis rail, thus retaining all the functions of the standard layout. Here in New Zealand we can create or radically modify road cars, but the rule book is extensive. For that reason it is advantageous to utilise as much OE componentry as possible - specially in steering and suspension. Do you have any more pictures of your project car that you could share? Best regards from NZ.



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texas mongrel
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Re: MORRIS MIATA MX-5

Post by texas mongrel »

Maz, I used both front and rear subframes complete and as stock, the only modification is to chop 3.25" out of the aluminum powerplant frame that joins them so that wheelbases match up. The front sway bar attaches directly to my new chassis and not the subframe because that's exactly how it is on the Miata - the sway bar bolts to the Mazda main frame rail and not the subframe. My Miata was a 2002 which may differ slighty from yours, but I'm still pretty sure that the sway bar mounting is the same.

I've got a file of about 160 build photos plus dimensioned fabrication drawings for the chassis and main structural bits. No problem to send them to you, just PM me with your e mail address and mailing address. So far, there's three guys in UK that I've done this for as they're all building morris Miatas! Visited my car today and all that's left is the headliner, so I should get her home on Wednesday, then the mad thrash to finish! Still don't know what those funky little studs in the corner of the woodwork do tho' -all the MMOI experts have been silent on my question....



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