electromog

Larger 4 cylinder engines, body mods, major brake and handling modifications.

Re: electromog

Postby andy-harris » Thu Dec 21, 2017 3:28 pm

Crikey, that is some powerful bike.

Being working on the electrics. Very slow and fiddly, but things are starting to come together. Here's the high voltage DC side.
The thing far left in the foreground is the vacuum pump which will drive the servo. Control electrics, fuses etc will be on the left, above the wiper motor.

DSC_0584[1].JPG
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Re: electromog

Postby woodywoodchipper » Thu Dec 21, 2017 6:37 pm

looks good,


not that i understand anything about it,lol,
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Re: electromog

Postby TDV102 » Thu Dec 21, 2017 8:11 pm

58 MOGGY wrote:Nice little bit of bling to encourage yourself, 8) ,i got bit of electro bug and because of bit of dodgy knee converted my mountain bike to electric assisted,took out for spin on sunday and was shocked with the power,really smooth,loads of torque,flat out got up to 40mph,it has 1500w motor running 52volts


Not on a public road of course....

The 250W limit on bikes is ridiculous. Should be 1KW.
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Re: electromog

Postby 58 MOGGY » Thu Dec 21, 2017 8:48 pm

Oh my god no never,i stay on the path :lol:
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Re: electromog

Postby Robjohnb » Wed Jan 03, 2018 9:14 pm

I really like your project! Just read through the comments.

It's quite a powerful setup you have, 0 to 60mph looks like it'll be dam quick.
I didn't read what size power pack ?Wh. I'm guessing this is going to be substantial from reading weights quoted and performance expected.

Did you consider in wheel hub motors? Seems a very practical approach although possibly no match for the hefty motor fitted.

Looking forward to your progress updates here.

Best regards, Robert
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Re: electromog

Postby andy-harris » Thu Jan 04, 2018 12:39 pm

Thanks Rob,
I'm thinking 108s75p if the 1.2ah, 3.2v cells I've got, which works out at about 30kwh? But really dependant on what I can do with the scrap batteries I got.

I did consider using a Sierra or mx5 type rear axle/frame, which would have made in-wheel (more likely in-board) motors possible, but cost and fear were limiting factors...
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Re: electromog

Postby Robjohnb » Thu Jan 04, 2018 10:57 pm

30kWh pack is substantial for a project build, should get a 100 mile run at least.
Have you done any checks on your battery cells? there's many poor quality china made types out there. I did go through this process when building a 200Wh pack for an e-bike. Got great results from Turnigy hobby Lipo packs in the end and ditched the 18650 cells extracted from new laptop packs.

Will you need to get DVLA type approval before road use?

Cheers, Rob
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Re: electromog

Postby andy-harris » Sat Jan 06, 2018 2:06 pm

Whoop! Whoop!
Got the rear wheels turning last night. Wiring harness has been swapped to the other side of the car. Pretty much 'started' first time.
Here's the wiring as it stands so far.

DSC_0587.JPG
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Re: electromog

Postby woodywoodchipper » Sat Jan 06, 2018 5:12 pm

:bravo: :bravo: :bravo:
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Re: electromog

Postby andy-harris » Sat Jan 20, 2018 9:39 pm

Crikey, brake pipe unions, what a pain!
There's a saying - "The great thing about standards is there's so many of them."

I think I've finally got it figured out:
As far as I can tell, original union size on all moggies was BSF 3/8" throughout. I'm not completely sure about this 'cos ESM are selling a "Bridge - Front Cylinder To Cylinder (UNF) December 1953 Onwards".
Good diagam here, with apologies https://www.mmoc.org.uk/Messageboard/viewtopic.php?t=43353 )
Fluid reservoir, to master cylinder - 10mm
Master Cylinder, from reservoir - 10mm
Master cylinder, to servo in - BSF 3/8"
Servo, from MC - UNF 3/8"
Servo to 3-Way + Switch - UNF 3/8"
3 Way + Switch, to Front 3 way - BSF 3/8"
3 Way + Switch, to Front 3 way and Rear Hose - BSF 3/8"
*1 Front 3 way - all BSF 3/8"
2 Front JLH disc hose - both BSF
*1 Rear hose - BSF both ends
*1 Rear axle 3 way - all BSF"
*2 Rear cylinders (ford mk1 8" drums) - UNF 3/8"
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Re: electromog

Postby woodywoodchipper » Sun Jan 21, 2018 4:33 pm

Hi Andy,
all brake cylinders are unf,
moggy brass fittings are male unf, female bsf (brake cylinder rear connectors)

brass t/pieces are 2 x bsf 1 x unf,

all pipework is bsf, except for the said link pipe on front cylinder which is unf,

flexibles are male unf, female bsf 2 front 1 rear,

A,
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Re: electromog

Postby andy-harris » Sun Feb 04, 2018 3:12 pm

Thanks Woody,
been doing more rear axle/handbrake layout work. Think I'm about there. Here's the handbrake position.
DSC_0611.JPG


Here's the handbrake cable route along the axle - going to Mk1 Escort drums. Can't easily route behind the axle because of the damper location. radius arm location is still an issue. Seems like a case of being able to put batteries under the rear seat, or having radius arms. The other option would be to go for a full blown 5 link kit, or the bolt on kit that sits underneath the springs. Problem is I haven't got a clue how much difference radius arms will make to the car.
DSC_0612.JPG


Here's how the rear axle height looks with around 200Kg of batteries in the boot.
DSC_0615.JPG


Building up to large order of parts (front king pins, hydraulic brake fittings etc etc) and looking forward to having a rolling chassis.
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Re: electromog

Postby Custard » Sun Feb 04, 2018 11:05 pm

Are you just thinking Radius Arms?

I have the JLH ones on mine, but I do also have the vertical telescopics and the Panhard Rod.

All three work well together. I certainly don't get axle tramp, nor do I get any real sideways movement because of the Panhard Rod. You always have some because of the arc it makes, but it is consistent and slight. To remove it all you would need a watts linkage.

Not sure how your weight over the rear axle compares but if it is much heavier and/or you like to make good progress I would say it transforms the car.

Could even be more so with yours as I understand full torque comes in much quicker with electric doesn't it?

Sean.
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Re: electromog

Postby andy-harris » Mon Feb 05, 2018 8:47 pm

Hmmm, the words low-end torque, heavier at the back and good progress kind of sell it to me. I was thinking Jon's radius arms only - I've got Van-plus springs in there, so things should be pretty stiff, but now I'm having second, rather expensive, thoughts.
Difficult to remember what my old mog was like to drive - van with a 1275. Rear wheel drift was fun with an empty 'boot' and van springs, but this thing is going to be somewhat heavier and certainly faster off the mark.
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Re: electromog

Postby andy-harris » Mon Feb 05, 2018 8:50 pm

Just to clarify, I've got telescopics in there, but no panhard rod. Yet?
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