Sean
You know you're right, but the angle of the marker is only 10-20 degrees , but I mis -read the Midget site data , they enthuse about the 1275 but give the bore/stroke of the 1098....
Unfortunately not a lot written these days is new and I have found a lot of errors in work as well as hobbies where in the rush things have simply been cut and paste so if you come across something not quite what you expect and it really matters I try to look in a couple of different places.
Doesn't always work as an error can be proliferated from one place to another. No one does it deliberately, but proof reading seems to be a dying art.
I hope your cam is a bit lumpy otherwise you will need to buy a new one
Right well its lockdown and I was bored so I have gone a bit silly and done the calculation for you.
Apologies if you are already familiar with the maths.
Stroke on 1275.JPG (177.93 KiB) Viewed 129 times
Hopefully reasonably self explanatory, sloping line on the left is your measurement through the plug hole and vertical line is the actual travel.
So your 86mm on a 20 degree angle becomes as near as damn it 81 in a vertical line.
All very rough as your angle of 20 degrees will be different between TDC and BDC, but it was an interesting exercise.
Also while your playing with the engine if your car has a standard bumper its worth getting hold of the starter dog nut and swapping that over as even if you never start the car on the handle it is so much easier to use it to do the points, timing and valve clearances.
Your picture has just reminded me about shenanigans with the fan.
You have to either flatten the breather. Some bash it, others cut the front 1/3 of so the pipe remains at the top and just weld a flat plate on.
Space out the fan (which puts it closer to the rad)
Or fit an electric fan. Easier said than done, I was in a rush and lost the original grille in order to fit it, but will rework it some day to see if i can get the original grille back somehow.
Also check the engine movement as you lose the gearbox steady once you lose the Moggy Gearbox. If you have read my thread you will have seen mine ate a radiator I had just had re-cored for around £100. An expensive lesson. It looked all ok until I was showing off my new disc brakes which with my wider tyres are better than a lot of small modern cars according to the MOT man.
If you use the proper Ford type 9 gearbox mount the gearbox/engine will not move forward under braking.
The way the Minor engine/gearbox mounts are manufactured allows the engine/gearbox to move forward hence the requirement for the steady wire. The Ford gearbox mount because it has a transverse format traps the gearbox case mount and holds the gearbox steady.
My Minor has a Ford gearbox with a Ford gearbox mount and without the Minor steady wire - when the car is braked it is braked hard and the engine/gear box does not move forward. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-Lotus-K ... xySE9Q7u6h
Yes, mine was cobbled together by whoever originally fitted the Toyota Box.
Another area for me still to rework.
I had forgotten how the original Ford one fitted, in order to keep the engine and gearbox low in the kit car, I had put a solid bar across the gear box and two smaller mountings one each end of the bar.
Gearbox Mount Upper.jpg (357.66 KiB) Viewed 95 times
Midget flywheel drilled to accept 1098 pressure plate, just needs tapping, skimmimg , dowels fitting , balancing .
( does it bring back happy memories Phil ? )
Yes it does bring back memories of going to Moss Special Tuning (MST) in the early 1990s located in Stockport to purchase a modified flywheel. The pressure plate was a shallower diaphragm type so you do need to make sure that there is plenty of clearance inside the bell housing to accommodate the spring pressure plate. The diaphragm pressure plate back then was Pt No: MGS20801.
The MOSS modified flywheel was superseded by a special steel flywheel which can be considerably lightened without the fear of the cast iron flywheel disintegrating.
Your modified flywheel appears to be about right as regards taking metal from the rear face. The front face has had metal removed from it to allow the fitment of the 7.5" clutch cover. I would advise against removing any more metal from the flywheel.
The dowels for locating the pressure plate are available from MOSS Pt No: 1G2984.
I have on the shelf a special 1275cc Midget alloy flywheel suitable for a 7.5" diaphragm clutch which I had made for me by Manx Racing and it is so light you can hardly feel the weight. Because it is so light it is not suitable for a road car. Makes the engine very lumpy but engine pickup was superb.
