Can't get into top gear

Common upgrades - A-Series mods, brakes,wheels, handling, interior.
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Formally known as chesney
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Re: Can't get into top gear

Post by Mecanglais »

I think he's used a new LHD front plate which is what got me wondering about the front plate in the first place, and if the angle is wrong for the clutch fork, if it is a poor copy.

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Re: Can't get into top gear

Post by Fingolfin »

I used the LHD 1098 front cover with oil seal modification that ESM makes. I compared the swivel point between old and new, and as far as my micrometer could tell they were the same, but...

Since I am converting to the Midget hydraulic system, I will be going back to the old RHD front cover anyway (the bellhousing does not have LHD mounting points for the slave cylinder). So the ESM plate ended up being a waste of $100. (That's no complaint about ESM.)

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Re: Can't get into top gear

Post by Custard »

Apologies I haven't followed the full history of what has been done, but from the heat and your knowledge of wear I would say that unless you have sat with the clutch depressed for a long time the issue is possibly that the clutch is not engaging properly when the pedal is released.

Are you sure that previously the fork arm was going far enough forward to allow the release bearing to come off the back of the cover plate.

Also is the centre of the friction plate unmarked? i.e. the boss has not been contacting either the crank or the clutch cover plate thereby stopping the friction material from being properly clamped up.

Also in your picture it looks like bits of wire between the two sides of the friction plate, do you know what that is?

I sympathise with your hassle as as I changed from a 1098 to a 1275 linked to a Toyota T50 gearbox and the clutch if not adjusted correctly will press the clutch fingers in too far and contact the boss on the friction plate with a rattling noise from the springs in the friction plate.

Hopefully the change to hydraulic parts, will resolve the issue for you.

There does seem to be plenty of meat on your friction plate though so whilst you can see excessive wear for a couple of miles unless there is any obvious damage you should have plenty of miles left in it. I wouldn't be inclined to change it until you had the hydraulic set up all working fine. It would be a shame to have a mishap on another new clutch and if it works fine on hydraulic then it will be fine for many miles.


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