Fitting Ford Ka seats...the correct way.

Common upgrades - A-Series mods, brakes,wheels, handling, interior.
Yes, it's true - if you swap the Ford feet around so that the two outboard feet are at the front and pointing inwards, they will indeed line up perfectly with the original Morris floor mounts. BUT - this doesn't place the seat anywhere near its ideal position. The seat base will be too low, offering zero upper leg/thigh support. The seat will also be hard-up against the tunnel.
Convenient it may be to bolt the seats in simply 'just because they happen to line up' - but when I did this I couldn't believe how wrong the seating position was. If you're going to the trouble of fitting decent seats, take the time to establish the ideal position for ultimate comfort - not just a convenient fixing point. Don't be lazy.
Here is how I did it.

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Below: 1.5" height 'U' section of 3/16" thick alloy, bolted to the original floor fittings with the seat feet attached 1.5" outboard of them.
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Below: The inboard, rear 'seatbelt foot' is bolted straight through the floorpan with load-spreaders underneath.
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Below: The outboard rear foot was originally the inboard front foot on the OTHER seat. Swap them over and re-attach at the outboard rear positon.
IMGP1875.JPG


Make a spacer to fit between the foot and floor.
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IMGP1879.JPG


Really comfy and not difficult. Just need to connect the heater wiring now. Hope you find this interesting - I'm well pleased with them.
Morris Minor. Dreadful cars.
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Very interesting indeed, well done sir
This is great information and I thank you for your efforts here, this is what forums are all about.
Al
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Not wishing to poo-poo your method, but I take slight umbridge having done it 'the incorrect way'.

I find the seating position very agreeable, and despite the seat squab being lower than standard minor seats, the extra firmness in the cushion means I sit no lower. This was evident in that I didn't need to adjust my mirrors after swapping the seats! Perhaps my originals were just very soggy and low anyway.

I'm not sure how you got that wide foot (2 bolts) to sit flush to the floor, as the foot base is parallel to the seat, and the floor slopes back. So if that foot is bolting up square, your seat must be leaning backwards, pivotting on the channel at the front.

Also, aluminium may be easier to work with, and lighter, but not sure i'd trust it for seat mounting... Never seen any modern cars with aluminum seats mounts.

I wouldn't say either method is correct or incorrect, just your way and my way ;)
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My post did sound opinionated. Of course it's down to individual preference. My seats are pivoted on the alloy section as you rightly say - it only amounts to a few degrees though and can be shimmed out if preferred. As for using alloy - I've used 3/16" gauge. It's plenty strong enough - aircraft structures, seat floor-rails, etc, etc.
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Re: Fitting Ford Ka seats...the correct way.

Postby Custard » Thu Sep 18, 2014 5:56 pm

There are quite a few ways to do it.

I have just got some 3/4 steel tube with the intention of welding brackets for the seats to it and then fastening the tube down at the front with stainless versions of the original fittings, so that's 4 bolts holding it down at the front.

Then I will work out the back to suit.

I had remembered you not lifting yours any Chris, but reckon I am a bit shorter than you so raising it will suit me.

Sean.
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Re: Fitting Ford Ka seats...the correct way.

Postby Griffo » Tue Sep 23, 2014 12:34 pm

Where did you source the aluminium channel ?
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Griffo wrote:Where did you source the aluminium channel ?


eBay. I searched for 'aluminium 'U' section'. One of the sellers offered 3/16" thickness rather than 1/8", which I felt was most suitable. It was around £25 for 1 metre. I can post a link to it if you like.
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Re: Fitting Ford Ka seats...the correct way.

Postby jojax64 » Fri Nov 21, 2014 7:55 pm

Did you fit the Ka back seat too? Pic please, if you did. 8)
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I kept the original back seat - but I did install an Isofix bracket for the kid. :)
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Re: Fitting Ford Ka seats...the correct way.

Postby jojax64 » Sat Nov 22, 2014 8:54 pm

What's that? :?
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All modern cars are fitted with brackets designed to universally accept baby seats. They allow the baby seats to simply 'click-in and out'. I bought a Ford Focus one and bolted it in, so I can take the 'faaaamly' with me.
Actually, I have a second bracket to fit, cos there is another one on the way.
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Re: Fitting Ford Ka seats...the correct way.

Postby jojax64 » Sun Nov 23, 2014 4:08 pm

Thanks. I've enjoyed this thread. Just finished drilling out the rivets on the first seat. Took a wee while, stubborn buggers to drill out. Apart from the rivets, what exactly are the other metal studs? Look like some kind of bump stops to stop the seats sliding too far?
Slowly getting there...... ;)
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I think you're referring to the bolts which I used to re-attach the feet to the rails, these need to have fairly small heads to allow the seat to slide past them - I even had to take a little off of one of them for clearance. The metal block end-stop at the rear end of the seat rail is the original - I left it there when I drilled the foot off. It remained firmly attached. Hope this helps.
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Re: Fitting Ford Ka seats...the correct way.

Postby GraemeT » Sun Jul 08, 2018 12:09 am

Resurrecting an old thread here with our recent exploits - may help somebody....

1955 Series 2 MM with the original mounting holes albeit refitted with M10 captive bolts. All Midnight Oil's comments work for us with just a couple of changes.

We would agree that the front of the Ka seats need raising for
(1) thigh support
(2) so that you can see the extra dials somebody fitted to our MM in the glovebox
(3) see out! (old seats were non MM and my eyes barely saw over the top of the dash)

Removing the Ka seat legs - just drill out to about 75% or so and then BIG hammer with cold chisel will snap the remainder off.

Tried the seats 'as is' but found that they are a little low. Bought one metre of aluminium U section at a 1 1/2" section with 1/4" profile and the extra heght makes all the difference.

Refitting the reversed legs - you can use dome headed bolts. They do not need grinding or filing down to avoid obstructing the fore and aft seat movement. The standard seat rails will take M6 but you can drill out so that M8 will fit. If you want to use the integral Ka seat belt mounting then I'd go for M8.

The front of the Ka's seat base has a 'normal' leg and a weird 'bendy' looking one. We binned that (rather than swapping out to the rear) and sourced a 'normal' one from another donor vehicle. If you fit that (reversed) on the front then you can leave the rear legs as they are.

Midnight Oil's pictures show that he's reversed/swapped the front legs, bolted in the U section and then offset the seat bolts into the upper section of the U section when compared to the floor bolts. We found that for the driver's seat we could simply drill through the U channel, fit a couple of spacers in the channel and then use a decent M10 bolt to tie the front of the seat down. This may set the seat 'off' too much to the right on a later MM but on the Series 2 the clutch pedal is more to the right so, for us, not a problem.

The rear feet were not reversed or swapped. On the driver's side they were a straight bolt in but the passenger site would not quite fit without shimming - turns out we have a bit of floor rot :-)

Not swapping the rear feet can leave the seats a trifle close to the handbrake cables on our car - the passenger seat needs to be fully slid back - otherwise this is a straightforward fit. This may not be the case on a later Minor - I have no idea if the handbrake fittings changed.

Rear seats - not done yet but it looks like a couple of sheets of ply bolted in will support the backs/base of the Ka seats. The backs have four M8 threaded holes at the base (for hinges?) plus a pair of blanked off M6 (?) studs at the top - these all can be fixed through the existing boot/passenger compartment bulkhead. The squab has a couple of tabs at the front that we will use to secure them.
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