Rhubarb

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chrisryder
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Re: Rhubarb

Post by chrisryder »

Looking good.

Have the original clamps gripped the frame tightly, or is there any risk of it sliding side to side through the clamps? The original seats had crude but effective screws to stop this.



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Custard
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Re: Rhubarb

Post by Custard »

Chris,

I did think about welding a piece to if need be.

I had deliberately discounted the screws as on the originals that seemed to be the original source of the crack.

Though with straight legs rather than bent ones mine will not be flexing the bottom tube so a screw may not be any issue.

In theory there is a chance they may slide as they are, in practice however I think that because there will be another two clamps on the rear tube the chances of them sliding would be minimal.

They will be modified if they do.

I also thought that the originals were more likely to move if they did not have the screw as they were tipped up and down which of course these will not do either.

Sean.

P.S. thinking about it once positioned correctly there is no reason the clamps could not be welded to the bottom tube in the correct place.



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Re: Rhubarb

Post by Custard »

This could go horribly wrong, and definitely won't be to everyone's tastes.

Decided a while back I was going to put some side repeaters on.

Also needed some flared arches but as little as possible.

And fancied a better heater to get decent quicker demisting, but Rhubarb hasn't got an elephants trunk and I did not want one in the engine bay really.

And a while back I also got the chance of some cheap second hand fibreglass wings to play with, (thanks Chris).

So now I am trying to make these work as proper heater air intakes.
Wing with Side Repeater.jpg
Wing with Side Repeater.jpg (183.02 KiB) Viewed 1893 times
Wing with Side Repeater.jpg
Unfortunately because of the curve of the minor wing they have to be mounted lower than I had hoped which means they come back towards the A panel a bit more.

When the weather is a bit better I may unwrap Custard and do a trial fit rather than take a wing off Rhubarb.

Sean.



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Re: Rhubarb

Post by The vast minority »

Blimey Sean, are they a JLR product? Sure look like it.

They actually look ok,
Let's see em on the vehicle

Al



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Re: Rhubarb

Post by Custard »

Land Rover Freelander 2 Standard fit, got a couple of shop soiled ones cheap last year.

They could end up silver, black or body colour yet.

Car is still running round with its red wings on, which is why I needed the cheap wings to play with.

I need warmer weather in order to use glass fibre to make the flares, before they can go on the car.

Sean.



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Re: Rhubarb

Post by The vast minority »

Well mate, I know some won't approve but I recon they look great for a custom job.
Dead keen to see em installed on the vehicle.

And all your idea, nice one 8)
Al



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Re: Rhubarb

Post by Custard »

Well after the best part of a year renovating my sister's house I got some long overdue time on Rhubarb.

Wiring was not up to standard.

Although she has big indicators she would have had the earlier flashing brake light ones and the box was still there.
1 Old Indicator Control Box.jpg
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1 Old Indicator Control Box.jpg
The wiring had been singed by an earlier bump stop welding by someone who must not have realised where the front part of the loom went.
2 Wiring Damaged by Welding.jpg
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2 Wiring Damaged by Welding.jpg
And the control box was removed untidily too.
3 Right Mess of Wiring.jpg
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3 Right Mess of Wiring.jpg
My indicator stalk had been giving problems and finally gave up the ghost, and the one on Custard was no better.

I also have electric washers to fit and a steering wheel change so a separate horn switch would be easier.

I therefore decided to fit these.
5 New Mini Stalks.JPG
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5 New Mini Stalks.JPG
I will need some more wire too so as Custard will be getting a complete rewire she was plundered once again. Doesn't look a lot does it.
4 Wire from Custard.jpg
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4 Wire from Custard.jpg
The indicator cowl mounting lugs were a bit close to the wires on the new stalks.
6 Cowl Mounting Lugs.jpg
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6 Cowl Mounting Lugs.jpg
So they were surgically removed and sharp edges filed down so I don't find them another day. The clip for the new stalk does not go that far on that you need to remove all of them so I left the smaller one on.
7 Cowl Lugs Removed.JPG
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7 Cowl Lugs Removed.JPG
The new stalks have a locating lug on them.
8 Locating Lug.jpg
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8 Locating Lug.jpg
A corresponding slot was then made in the column. I did rotate it first so that the remaining cowl bracket was at the bottom. Once the slot has been made if the stalks are not correctly positioned you can loosen the two pinch bolts and rotate the outer column.
9 Notch Made.jpg
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9 Notch Made.jpg
They fit.
10 Fits Nicely.jpg
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10 Fits Nicely.jpg
The outer column can be moved in and out slightly to fine tune the distance from the wheel.
11 Nice Gap.jpg
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11 Nice Gap.jpg
I need to devise a way of fixing the white plastic collar to the inner column so that they will self cancel, but since the original had a tapped hole and a bolt it will hardly weaken it too much if I add another one to go through the collar and into the column.

Then its the wiring, could do with finding a scrap mini loom so I can leave the plugs on the stalks rather than cutting them off.

Sean.



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Re: Rhubarb

Post by Custard »

Scrap Mini loom obtained and Custard's wiring loom removed as well and cannibalised.

No pics as wiring was completely non standard when I looked more closely as a result of being converted to alternator and having a radio and alternative dash fitted, before I started playing.

It is now a further mis match as the washers horn and indicator are on the stalks, but for now the dip switch is still on the floor. The redundant warning light for the old oil filter has become the indicator tell tale.

It nearly made the MOT but a leaking hub made one rear brake u/s. So a late night yesterday and new bearings and seals on both rear hubs meant she got an MOT today and should make it to Pateley Bridge tomorrow.

ESM hub nuts are terrible quality, one just would not fit and the old one had to be cleaned up and reused. (Yes I was trying the right ones, I had bought 4 bearing kits and 2 left hand and 2 right hand nuts a while ago).

Sean.



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Re: Rhubarb

Post by Panky »

Good luck and have a cold one for me :D


Image

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Re: Rhubarb

Post by The vast minority »

Well done getting it sorted Sean,
What time you arriving? In time for the run I hope?
Al



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Re: Rhubarb

Post by Custard »

Al,

Not sure I still have a few things to do, so don't hang on.

Kettlewell you are going to isn't it.?

Sean.



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Re: Rhubarb

Post by Custard »

Well I cant believe how long ago its been since I posted on this thread, but work and family things intervened and now I am slowly looking at carrying on where I left off.

I have now started fitting the Saab seats i bought from a member on here a few years ago now.

Going for the same method as before as it worked well, but the steel sizes apart from the tube are different largely because it is what was to hand.

Runners 30mm x 30mm Angle - Its thicker than Saab used for the sliders so must be good enough.
Using Domed Set Screws to avoid any clearance issues when adjusting the seat.
Runners01.jpg
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Runners01.jpg
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Flanged Nuts for now but will be changed to washers and Nylocs after painting.
Runners02.jpg
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For each seat as well as the runners, 2 transverse tubes and 4 uprights are needed along with 4 fillers.
The fillers are needed to make a neater job because the legs are 25mm box but the tube is 3/4"
Last time I found because of the slant of the floor having the rear legs 5-10mm longer than the fronts left the seat squab at an angle I liked.
First time round I played with wooden packers to work out what I wanted.
At this stage its not too important to cut to length. It is better to be a little too long and cut to length after the fishmouths have been added.
Parts01.jpg
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Parts01.jpg
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3/4" tube is used as it matches the original seat so the front can be clamped down without any drilling using the standard seat clamps.
Fixing Strap.jpg
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Fixing Strap.jpg
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The spacer is wider than 25mm so there is a ledge for a good weld.
The tube will be slightly wider for the same reason, but to avoid ruining the end by welding close to the end it will be welded and then cut to final length afterwards.
Parts03.jpg
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Parts03.jpg
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Upside down side on view using scraps.
3/4" tube is 19. something mm so end caps for 20mm tube will fit.
Samples Side On.jpg
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Samples Side On.jpg
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As well as fishmouthing the ends of the tube one corner is chamfered to allow for the internal radius on angle iron which would stop them fitting together nicely.
Corner Chamfered.jpg
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Corner Chamfered.jpg
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Another view from a different angle using an offcut of tube.
Samples.jpg
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Hopefully clean up, put a radius on the runners, weld and trial fit tomorrow.

Sean.



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Custard
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Re: Rhubarb

Post by Custard »

I needed the car so quickly made the drivers side useable.

Drivers Seat In.JPG
Drivers Seat In.JPG (315.04 KiB) Viewed 40 times
Drivers Seat In.JPG

Now I have got the passenger side tacked up.

This time instead of doing the fish mouthing with a powerfile I dispensed with the filler pieces and cut the square tube with a hole saw before adjusting to the correct length.

Use Hole Cutter.jpg
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Use Hole Cutter.jpg
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Then having already drilled the mounting holes clamp the runners back to back with the holes aligned.

I drew two lines on the makeshift bench to help doing this.

Then position the legs as close to the holes as practical allowing for the need to get a spanner or socket on the nuts.

Clamp Runners Back to Back.jpg
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Clamp Runners Back to Back.jpg
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Then tack the legs on.

Legs Tacked On.jpg
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Legs Tacked On.jpg
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Once the legs are on the runners can be bolted to the seat. I found it easiest with the seat propped up upside down.

Then comes the bit I like the least.

In order to avoid having to accurately measure and have a struggle fitting the seat, I fix the tubes while the runners are bolted up to the seat.

At this point I used my leather welding apron and some other leather to protect the seat from stray sparks.

Adding Tube.jpg
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Adding Tube.jpg
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All tacked up enough to move about.

Its higher at the back on the bench, but of course the Moggy floor slopes down at the back.

It was easy for me as I did the drivers one to match the Puma Seat I had in before and I am doing the passenger one the same size.

The first time I did this I did a lot of fiddling with blocks of wood to work out the correct height.

Its not too critical if you are fitting a drivers seat with height adjustment.

Seat On.JPG
Seat On.JPG (446.49 KiB) Viewed 40 times
Seat On.JPG

And the subframe only sat in place.

As previously mentioned the final version will have clamps on the rear bar.

Access to the rear seats will be impossible, it was just about possible before as the Puma seats did have a tilt mechanism, but the Saab Seats don't.

At the moment I don't have any rear seats anyway.

Subframe Without the Seat.JPG
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Subframe Without the Seat.JPG
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I need to finish welding the passenger side, remove the drivers seat, tidy them both up radiusing some of the runners front and rear then paint and refit.

Sean.



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