Camber

Rebuilding, adjusting, maintaining & alternatives

Camber

Postby Daglocks » Tue Jul 11, 2017 2:48 pm

IMG_4594.JPG
My Mistral special was built with a huge amount of positive camber, and the tyres are scrubbing on the inside.
There are no washers on the eyebolts to remove. the damper mounts have been redrilled at some stage as shown in the photo. The suspension has been lowered.

What are my options to correct this or should I just live with it?
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Re: Camber

Postby Panky » Tue Jul 11, 2017 3:43 pm

Negative camber ;)
I think the only way would be to re-drill the damper mounts again, if there's enough room.
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Re: Camber

Postby Custard » Tue Jul 11, 2017 3:46 pm

Presumably it was even worse before they were moved upwards and outwards.

Not sure how much movement you would need to get it more acceptable, but the eye bolt bushes look a touch cracked, could be just the paint, but checking that the pin is still round and not worn and fitting polybushes would at least ensure it stays central in the eye.

But if they are ok then it would not alter. looking at your photo there is not much room to move the lower wishbone in. I did think if there was a very small amount could be turned off the mating face so that it was closer to the chassis, but the arms still need clearance to move so it would be quite a bit of work for possibly a very small gain.

Same goes for trying to move the damper out, to re drill would be making swiss cheese so at the very least you would want to plate the other side and weld up the original holes then redrill.

I think you are faced with a bit of effort for marginal gains in the hope that they all add up to a significant change.
Is the tracking right and the ackerman close now? If all else is correct then the camber related wear would slow down as the chamfer gets wider and the rest of the tyre takes more of the load. As long as it is legal on the inner edge then you could be fine for a while. How does it handle?

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Re: Camber

Postby Daglocks » Tue Jul 11, 2017 4:39 pm

Thanks
It seems to handle OK.
I think its just the paint thats cracked, there is no play in eyebolt.
If I redrilled, I could move the shock absorber 1/4", but not the 3/4" needed to get the camber vertical.
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Re: Camber

Postby Custard » Tue Jul 11, 2017 9:03 pm

They do handle better with a little camber, but if it handles fine and the tyre wear is acceptable just enjoy the car.

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Re: Camber

Postby Daglocks » Wed Jul 12, 2017 10:29 am

I think I found the problem.
The chassis is a poor design, and over the years the two vertical members holding the shock absorbers have bent inwards.
I jacked them apart and have made a box section brace to stiffen them.
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Re: Camber

Postby emjay » Wed Jul 12, 2017 3:28 pm

That's interesting that that you are jacking it out. I had noticed that the shock supports relied on the torsion resistance of the main frame. I didn't comment because it must have worked, but I guess not. Adding the brace is a good measure. It even allows you some camber adjustment. It looks like the eye bolts are attached to the same upright member, so there will be a slight change down there as well. It takes along time for camber to show wear on the tires if any, whereas excessive toe in will show very soon. Especially with radial there just isn't any squirming of the tread relative to the road, but one of the side walls will need to deform more.
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Re: Camber

Postby Daglocks » Thu Jul 13, 2017 6:13 am

I set the tracking 1/8" toe in, but the problem is the track rods aren't horizontal as you can just see in the photo. when the suspension is compressed, the wheels go toe out quite a lot. Ive been looking at ways to correct this, moving the rack isn't easy so may have to raise the suspension , or bend the steering arms which I am reluctant to do. Handling over bumps is acceptable however, so I may just live with it!
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Re: Camber

Postby Custard » Thu Jul 13, 2017 7:45 pm

I presume by raising the suspension, you mean lowering the car, have you enough ground clearance?

Depending on the angles of the wishbone and the damper arm it could be exaggerated because the arc of the damper arm pulls the top of the kingpin in at the same time.

Going toe out can make it skittish under braking as the nose diving is the same effect as bump, though usually more equal side to side.

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Re: Camber

Postby Daglocks » Fri Jul 14, 2017 2:05 pm

Sorry, I meant raise the car (on the suspension)
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Re: Camber

Postby Custard » Sat Jul 15, 2017 12:30 am

Won't that make it worse?

Unless it is my eyes the rack seems to be higher than the end of the steering arms so when the wheel goes up and it goes nearer to level it toes out.

So lowering the car and therefore the rack brings it more in line so when the wheel goes up there is less of a change.

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Re: Camber

Postby emjay » Sat Jul 15, 2017 10:53 am

IT also doesn't help that the shock arm is sloping upward and the tie rod is sloping downward. The best would have them all roughly parallel. I wonder why they change the angle of the shock arm.
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Re: Camber

Postby cardiffrob » Sat Jul 15, 2017 1:51 pm

If you get some Lowlight eyebolts then you'll gain maybe up to 2 degrees of positive camber and reset them to 'vertical'
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