brake problems

Rebuilding, adjusting, maintaining & alternatives
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Kyle
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Joined: 2 years ago

brake problems

Post by Kyle »

I recently fitted a new rear axle, along with this i fitted new copper brake pipes, new drums, wheel cylinders, brake shoes, handbrake cables and flexy hose. Everything has been ok up to last week when i had to do an emergency stop. Some idiot decided to pull ou on me, anyway shortly after i had a noise from the nearside front. One of the cylinders had failed, so 4 new cylinders were fitted, new shoes and flexy hoses. Today the brakes stuck on, we managed to get it home, and found that the only way to get the cylinders to release was to open the bleed nipples. I found that then even at full adjustment the off side rear still wouldn't touch the drum. I finally got the rears adjusted and the offside front jammed back on, and even with the adjustment right off is still tight. The brake fluid just will not return, although all the pipes are new. The pedal goes solid too, so the only thing left is the master cylinder, unless one of you guys can think of anything else. It really is a simple system, it shouldn't be this hard to sort.



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MM
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United Kingdom
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Re: brake problems

Post by MM »

I'd suggest, if you haven't already done so, a thorough bleeding session (ideally with a pressure-bleed setup).

It could be that a seal has failed or jammed in the master cylinder under strong emergency braking. Perhaps try working the brake pedal fully in and out a few times, having first slackened off a bleed nipple. Also remove the MC cover panel(s) and check the brake pedal mechanism is working as it should, with no jamming; I have seen some Minors where the bushes become so worn and rusted that pressing the brake pedal also pushes the clutch pedal along with it!


Maurice, Kent.
1970 Trafalgar Blue Traveller

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Kyle
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Re: brake problems

Post by Kyle »

I have already completely flushed the system through with new fluid. I am going to replace the M/C tomorrow. I do have a pressure bleeding kit, but unfortunately not a cap to fit that cylinder. We have been forcast thunderstorms for tomorrow, as i am working outside, i am keeping everything crossed that they miss us.



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Sleeper
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Re: brake problems

Post by Sleeper »

If you're going to replace the m/c , why not modify the old cap for your pressure bleed system? I did and was pleasantly suprised...
2020_0730hydpump0004.JPG
2020_0730hydpump0004.JPG (291.28 KiB) Viewed 147 times
2020_0730hydpump0004.JPG
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Thu Jul 30, 2020 1:22 pm
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f/3.3
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250
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Flash fired, auto mode, return light detected
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SONY
Camera-model:
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Exposure program:
Normal program
Exposure bias:
0 EV
Metering mode:
Pattern
John ;-)



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Kyle
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Re: brake problems

Post by Kyle »

I was considering converting the old cap to be honest. Whats that you have used ? I was thinking of trying to remove the fitting from one of the caps in my Gunsons pressure bleeder, and trying to fit it into the old cap. Certainly would make things easier.



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Sleeper
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Re: brake problems

Post by Sleeper »

I used an old tyre valve with all the bits removed , a blob of araldite or JB weld , or even tap the lid with the correct thread ?

John ;-)



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Kyle
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Re: brake problems

Post by Kyle »

I got one of those, do you think a bleed nipple will do it, i have some new ones of those. I can drill and tap to suit.



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Sleeper
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Re: brake problems

Post by Sleeper »

I think you'll get better flow with a bigger orifice...I don't like the open/down/close/up method of bleeding...if you've ever seen fluid/air in a transparent pipe the air moves a little then returns to the high point...with power flushing the air has no chance to return .. ;-)

John



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Sleeper
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Re: brake problems

Post by Sleeper »

Just re-read , yes, anything you can fix the pipe to the cap will do...

John ;-)



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Kyle
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Re: brake problems

Post by Kyle »

Well i thought i would update you all as i found quite a bit wrong today.
I said earlier that there was no play in the pedals, this was correct when i tried moving them. Then i removed the floor panel, the yoke for the brake pedal to M/C was bent, just shy of 90 degrees. When i removed the pin and spring there was a lot of movement in the pedals and shaft, so i removed them, The clutch pedal shaft has 2 big grooves worn into it where the brake pedal is and where the shaft goes through the chassis accelerator side. The bushes in the chassis are practically none existent, ( they are out now), and the ones in the brake pedal are shot.
I removed the M/C and its solid, so i went ahead and replaced it.
I have a new clutch pedal and shaft on its way, a set of bushes, push rod and yoke. I have now converted the old cap so the pressure bleeder i have fits it, and while the cylinder was out i repaired the captive nuts for the cross member that had broken free.



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Kyle
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Re: brake problems

Post by Kyle »

Fitted everything on Sunday and everything that could go wrong did. After fitting new bushes to the brake pedal and chassis rails the new clutch pedal wouldn't go in without removing the gearbox mountings, and pulling the box over to one side. Then the fork on the new push rod for the brake pedal to master cylinder sheared off. I had to drill out the fork, tap and fit a new thread. Then tack weld it together, then Re tap the push rod. Next the pressure bleeder cap i had made from the old M/C cap didn't fit the new cylinder, different thread, so i had to bleed them the old way. Connected the clutch linkage up and the metal cup that fits onto the chassis and holds the linkage completely dropped in half, so out with the welder again, just so we could get it going. New linkage has arrived today as the old bushes ect were shot.
I now have good working brakes but the pedal is a bit low. I have the 3/4 inch movement before i feel the piston in the M/C, so i think it must just be readjustment on the shoes. I no longer get any creep or pumping up on the pedal, so i am confident that they are bled properly. Rear shoes are almost adjusted out as far as they will go and they are new cylinders and shoes, fronts have loads of adjustment and are also new cylinders and shoes.



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timb02
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Great Britain
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Location: norfolk

Re: brake problems

Post by timb02 »

Blimey what a palaver! Where did you get the replacement parts from? I would worry about brake components failing on install, it is lucky you have the skills and equipment to get round the deficiencies of the "new" parts . Well done!



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Kyle
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Re: brake problems

Post by Kyle »

Parts came from ESM, David manners is close to me but didn't have the clutch pedal. To top it off the next day (1st day back on the road) the window wiper motor packed up. Luckily i had a spare i had rebuilt in the shed.
New clutch linkage will go on Friday afternoon weather permitting.



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