Master Brake Cylinder

Rebuilding, adjusting, maintaining & alternatives

Master Brake Cylinder

Postby thomasdahl » Sun Oct 06, 2019 3:15 pm

One thing is for sure... If I had know what a total hassle changing the master brake cylinder was going to be I would have driven the darned car off a cliff... Only kidding.. But seriously.. Needing to strip out the front suspension to get the torsion bar out. I am now replacing trunions, bushes etc etc. A nightmare as everything is covered in 4mm of Mike Sander.

I am sorry if this question had already been answered elsewhere, but I was expecting a T-piece at the back of the cylinder and instead found one piece blocked off like the attached photo. Made getting the bas**** out a lot easier. But is it OK to leave it like this? It looks like the only pipe connected to the cylinder feeds to a T-piece upfront in the car and from there it is run backwards and forwards in the car.

Bear in mind that this is my wife's car which she has driven every day for 37 years here in Germany. It has obviously worked well for a long time.

Just thought that I would ask..

Best Regards Thomas
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thomasdahl
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Re: Master Brake Cylinder

Postby emjay » Sun Oct 13, 2019 1:16 pm

I see no problem with your current arrangement. One might argue that it will be pushing more fluid through a single route but all of it always has to go through the banjo bolt anyway. Your car just adds a bit more length of the single route and of course it's only two extra cylinders. As for removing the bolts through the master cylinder, many are able to reverse the bolts after shortening them a bit. Just make sure there is adequate clearance to the torsion bar to avoid nicking it. Otherwise it is possible to slightly bow the torsion bar to get a bolt out. Do one bolt at a time so that you only need to bow it a minimum amount. I use a C-clamp and a piece of angle spanning the frame rails. But it's also a good time to rebuild the front suspension and if you have rubber eyebolt bushings, it will be needed.
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