Brake pedal problem

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Brake pedal problem

Postby Rocketray » Mon Oct 01, 2018 3:31 pm

Might seem a silly question but what is the proper brake bleed routine for my 1969 Morris 1000. The Haynes manual says furthest to nearest the master cylinder others have told me nearest to furthest, I have tried both ways but cannot get a good pedal it goes nearly to the floor all the cylinders are new and none are leaking and all pipe joints seem tight and have no sign of fluid leakage. Thanks in advance
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Re: Brake pedal problem

Postby plastic orange » Mon Oct 01, 2018 5:28 pm

Make sure when adjusting the rear brakes you ensure no tension on the handbrake prior to adjusting. If all adjustment is fine, and no air bubbles are present when bleeding, clamp off flexis and see if pedal drops. If it does you have a master cylinder problem and if it doesn't, release each flexi in turn to identify where the problem is. If clamping the back one gives a solid pedal, then you'll have to work out which one by other means.

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Re: Brake pedal problem

Postby Rocketray » Mon Oct 01, 2018 6:51 pm

Thank you for your quick reply I renewed the back brakes last year and have just put 4 new cylinders on the front I will give it a go as soon as I can. Thanks again
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Re: Brake pedal problem

Postby Plin » Mon Oct 01, 2018 9:48 pm

Sorry can't help with your brake issues, hope you get them sorted soon - but in the meantime :D welcome to the forum!
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Re: Brake pedal problem

Postby Rocketray » Tue Oct 02, 2018 11:10 am

Thank you I have not had a Morris before. I had a Wolseley 1660 but the wife pinched some of the garage for a utility room and it would no longer fit. Anyway back to the problem, my wife has been working the brake pedal and did not mention that when she pumped the pedal fluid spurted up from the master cylinder does this mean that it is no good I was told when I bought the car it was only a year old and it looks fairly new and the brakes were fine before I changed the front cylinders.
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Re: Brake pedal problem

Postby Rocketray » Tue Oct 02, 2018 1:41 pm

Finally got a brake pedal felt great until I went to the car after an hour and had lost it again does this mean that I have a Master cylinder problem?
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Re: Brake pedal problem

Postby woodywoodchipper » Tue Oct 02, 2018 5:42 pm

look inside the chassis leg and see if you have fluid in there,

also when bleeding put the cap back on as it will squirt fluid out

it does sound like a leak somewhere,
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Re: Brake pedal problem

Postby Rocketray » Wed Oct 03, 2018 7:33 am

Thanks I am going to replace the flexible hoses and copper washers when I get a chance but there doesn't seem to be air in the system when you bleed it. Thanks again all feedback is very much appreciated.
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Re: Brake pedal problem

Postby emjay » Thu Oct 04, 2018 4:14 pm

Slowly pressing the pedal by hand with the cap off will tell you how much air is in the system. Any air in the system is much more compressive than just fluid and the higher the squirt when the master piston starts moving means more air. Normally it should just be a just a little up flow regardless of how fast you push. A system that has a soft pedal can also be a leak past the primary seal in the master cylinder. The master cylinder has a normal working stroke, however, when pumping brakes during bleeding it will travel into unused areas and if it is rough, the seals can be damaged.
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Re: Brake pedal problem

Postby Rocketray » Wed Oct 17, 2018 10:02 am

Thanks for all the advice so far but I am at a total loss. I have new wheel cylinders all round 80 percent new pipes I have re-sealed the master cylinder which was new two years ago, checked all pipes and connections are tight. but I cannot get a peddle. I have worked on cars for the last 45 years and have never come across a situation like this. I tried again this morning with the wife working the pedal so I was not getting air sucked back in and went around the car three times but nothing furthest to nearest but to no avail.
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Re: Brake pedal problem

Postby woodywoodchipper » Wed Oct 17, 2018 1:57 pm

is the actuator rod correctly adjusted so your are getting full cylinder movement,

there should be minimum free play 1/8th on the rod,(you need a little to stop brakes binding)
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