Repairing the floor edge

Finishing, Windows, Hoods & Trav wood etc

Postby Big Al » Thu Feb 17, 2011 9:09 pm

Bl00dy marvelous!  :notworthy:

...but just a little daunting to some of us mere mortals.

Just need to link CJ's words to Jono's photos with big arrows pointing to each bit so that we who only read bubble speech can follow. Better still I might just wait for the Blue Peter DVD and order the T-shirt from that man with the caravan...  :lol:  :wink:
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Postby newadventuresofarthur » Thu Feb 17, 2011 9:30 pm

AWESOME STUFF JONO!!!!!!!!!

Excellent stuff, thanks a lot for taking the time to post stuff up!

Cheers everyone for all your help - this was better than I expected.

I was thinking about fabriating the floor edge out of steel (looks quite a simple shape), but think going for the panels will be a better option.

Thanks again. :D
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Postby snowmanbill » Thu Feb 17, 2011 10:02 pm

You dont get this sort of advice free on the Dark Side :wink:
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Postby newadventuresofarthur » Fri Feb 18, 2011 12:47 am

snowmanbill:38492 wrote:You dont get this sort of advice free on the Dark Side :wink:


well, they would had they not banned him!  :lol:
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Postby woodywoodchipper » Fri Feb 18, 2011 6:28 pm

Excellant stuff there Jono, very clear and precise thank you.


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Postby minormadman » Sat Feb 19, 2011 7:57 am

I am very nearly speechless.  :)
This is great stuff.
Has anyone got any pics please, of the bracing of these areas, which,whilst braced ,will still allow  the doors to be fitted to check gaps as we go along.
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Postby jonathon H » Sat Feb 19, 2011 9:59 am

Here is a convertible we rebuilt. This had minimal bracing ,but was measured when it came in, on all 4 wheels at laden weight. This was a good original motor which had not lost its shape, so the frame was used to stop expansion of the door gap rearwards and a cross brace to keep the sides in place.
Careful re measuring ensured that the car was rebuilt to the correct dimensions. Note : all welding and cutting out is performed with the car on its wheels ,engine and all other mechanicals still fitted. Only on a saloon/trav or commercial can this be performed on a stripped out shell.
Sorry about picture size ,I'll try and edit them later


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Postby DaveS » Sat Feb 19, 2011 11:00 am

Sorry to hi-jack this thread,
Jono that is terrific :D  as I reckon the door gap on my convertible is V shaped(tight at sill wider at door top)do you have the measurements for the door gap top and bottom so I can compare and what is that silver coloured paint applied to the bare metal. Thanks
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Postby minormadman » Sat Feb 19, 2011 11:26 am

Don't think you're hijacking this thread at all Dave.

It's all about measurements and work done to stop mislignment and bad fitting door gaps.

These two Resident experts are showing exactly what is required to do the jobs properly.

Exellent words and pictures, as usual 944 and Jonathon, as always good detail.
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Postby jonathon H » Sat Feb 19, 2011 11:45 am

Dave , the silver paint is UPOL zinc rich weld through primer, we use this for all joins and panel surfaces which become enclosed once welded. Its not cheap, trade we pay aroound £18 a can.
Re door gaps we take every car individually, simply because previous welding may have moved the A,B,or C posts or dropped the B post or A post. So really the apperture and door need to be fully assessed before cutting or adjusting gaps.
I'd fit your door and see where the best alignment is, ie if its good at the front and the frame is a good gap to the screen support, then start from that point. Then see where it fits against the B post,check that the B post is in the correct position, ie measure against the opposite door (only if this one is a good fit). Its then a case of deciding which A or B post is 'most' correct and shimming or manipulating the door apperture with a dozzer.
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Postby minormadman » Sun Feb 20, 2011 4:19 pm

Hello all -but I suppose I address the resident experts in metal fab, panel fitting, welding and big renovation jobs.
I found this post of great interest and have worked my way through it , have  read and tried to follow every part of it.
But being a newbie to such big jobs, I came unstuck with the names that different people called the same panels or fittings.
I don't know about Big Al or any of the others, but I request clarification please if possible.
Will it be possible for someone to label a similar diagram to the one that Snowman Bill posted up, showing arrows to match every one of the terms listed (all used by every contributor)

New Adventures

Lower sill
Underside of inner sill
Replacement floor panel
Outer sill
Upper sill
Upper inner sill
Outer under sill
Inner under sill
OEW

Inner under sill

Morris and 944

Outer sill edge
Boxing plate front
Inner sill step (keeps the cars shape)
Lower sill panels
Inner flange of the outer sill panel
Sill finisher channel
Floor edge panel (channel)
Floor edge sill panel
Rear floor edge panel

Sorry about this-I fully appreciate that to some-many of these are straight forward, but some are misleading.
Thanks in anticipation
Regards
Cliff
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Postby MickEssex » Sun Feb 20, 2011 5:51 pm

Reading through the text Cliff, this is what I assume the posters are referring to. I hope this helps to clarify which panels are which.

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3 Lower sill
3 Underside of inner sill
2 Replacement floor panel
6 Outer sill
7 Upper sill
7 Upper inner sill
6 Outer under sill
3 Inner under sill

OEW

3 Inner under sill

Morris and 944

6 Outer sill edge
1 Boxing plate front
7 Inner sill step (keeps the cars shape)
3 Lower sill panels
6 Inner flange of the outer sill panel
5 Sill finisher channel
3 Floor edge panel (channel)
3 Floor edge sill panel
3 Rear floor edge panel
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Postby Big Al » Sun Feb 20, 2011 7:04 pm

Thanks Mick, on behalf of me and Cliff...!
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Postby MickEssex » Sun Feb 20, 2011 8:21 pm

I should have added that the Outer under sill (3) is in two parts, front and rear. Some of the panels vary between models, i.e. 2 door, 4 door, Traveller and van/pickup. The convertible also has an Inner sill (7) strengthener. There is  also a boxing panel  extension (not shown in diagram) which extends the Boxing panel (1) to the rear wheel arch on 2/4 door cars (not sure about the Traveller here).
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Postby minormadman » Sun Feb 20, 2011 9:59 pm

Mick the Marvel   aka not Ming the Merciless.

Fantastic, just what the doctor ordered, I knew there were others who would benefit from that, and I wasn't the only "Thicko".

I don't know about Big Al, but my last Minor never got any bodywork done on it. Only general servicing, brakes, some electrics, fan belt, swapped Dynamo, window seal leak fix, think that's all that happened ( I think it maybe me saying I can only remember the good times, but it seems to be true) except going up Shap in the late Autumn-in the snow.

Thanks again Mick-good job
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