Tung Oil

Finishing, Windows, Hoods & Trav wood etc
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MM
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Tung Oil

Post by MM »

Has anyone tried treating Traveller woodwork with Tung oil?

From what I've read, it sounds at least as good as Danish/Osmo oil, etc...


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1970 Trafalgar Blue Traveller

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Custard
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Re: Tung Oil

Post by Custard »

Not used it on a Traveller, but I use it on a Greenland Paddle for my seakayak.

It has good water repellency, but the advice I got from the paddle suppliers was 3 or four coats so that water would bead on it, but to add a coat or more as required every 6 months or so.

The tin more or less says the same.

It can be used on chopping boards etc. as it is not harmful. Not that you would be chewing your traveller wood. There is an allergy warning as it is a nut based product.

I have the Liberon Quick Drying Tung Oil let me know if you want a photo of the tin and the instructions on the back.

It ends up as a matt finish, I can photograph the paddle too if you want.

Sean.



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MM
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Re: Tung Oil

Post by MM »

Yes please, Sean - just a photo of the finish will do. My Traveller's wood has some dry rot in places, mostly up on the roof rail sections - do you reckon it would help preserve/improve that?


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1970 Trafalgar Blue Traveller

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Re: Tung Oil

Post by Custard »

A couple of the blade with it on flower mode and one of the shaft where the grain is different.

I think the dark wood is red cedar with ash edges.

Final colour with all oils varies with the base wood and how much it has been sanded.

As I am holding the paddle I sanded it with 500 before using the oil and in between coats.

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Years ago when I had my traveller I ended up digging out the soft wood to get to solid wood, treating it with clear cuprinol first and because I was used to mending fibreglass kayaks and had resin I actually painted clear resin in to make it water tight. The rest of it had been varnished so I then applied more varnish on top.

To be honest though I think if its not completely sound it seals stuff in and it still rots, you just slow it down. I think the modern breathable stuff is a better approach, but back then then I knew no better. 18 months later the car was sold to someone with the ability to take the car off the street and the funds to replace the wood as it wasn't structurally sound enough to carry 4 kayaks.

Sean.



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Re: Tung Oil

Post by Big Al »

I'm totally taken with Sikkens, it has out lasted anything on Matilda before. Just wished there was something like that for paintwork...


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Re: Tung Oil

Post by Custard »

Yes Sikkens has more of a sheen to it.

My Dad used that on a Mahogany front door for years. On new wood there is a sort of primer undercoat they all seem to be Cetol and a number. It does seem to work well and like the oil once the layers are on the first time it doesn't take much rubbing down to add another layer.

I think some of the Sikkens products also protect against UV as well so helps prevent colour change.

Sean.



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Re: Tung Oil

Post by Panky »

Oooooo I like the look of that. Can you please tell me the process and product you used (I'm not familiar with the Sikkens range), I'm renewing most of Ted's wood so would like to get prepared and treat the sections before I fit them.


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Re: Tung Oil

Post by snowmanbill »

Al what colour of Sikkens is that? its exactly what I want when I eventually get round to finishing the Bodgerama


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Re: Tung Oil

Post by MM »

Yes, I previously applied 3 coats of Sikkens Masterstroke microporous on my Traveller back in November 2012 and it's still in mostly OK condition (certainly lasts far longer than yacht varnish, Danish oil, etc.), but is now getting a bit in need of rejuvenation work in places.


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1970 Trafalgar Blue Traveller

http://retrorides.proboards.com/index.c ... read=37056" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

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Re: Tung Oil

Post by Custard »

That's good going.

My front door would need redoing every other year, just a quick rub down and a top coat, but it is south facing so gets all the sun and is exposed to all the weather as well.

So longevity will depend on both uv and the weather exposure.

To be honest I think these days Yacht varnish is only good in mildly damp areas that don't really get wet. e.g. inside a yacht. For everything else there are better options.

I was told that the yacht varnish you get from a chandlers though is better than the stuff you get from a DIY store.

Yacht varnish is probably better on areas where abrasion occurs because of the toughness so it withstands knocks a bit better.

Sean.



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Re: Tung Oil

Post by Big Al »

Panky wrote:Oooooo I like the look of that. Can you please tell me the process and product you used (I'm not familiar with the Sikkens range), I'm renewing most of Ted's wood so would like to get prepared and treat the sections before I fit them.
The process was quite simple. I drove down to ESM and left it with them for a couple of weeks... ;)

They removed doors and side panels, stripped and sanded before applying one coat of stain/base coat then two layers of top coat. Both were in light oak.

More photos of before and after and details of the tins can be seen on Matilda’s page entry #214 onwards.


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Re: Tung Oil

Post by Big Al »

snowmanbill wrote:Al what colour of Sikkens is that? its exactly what I want when I eventually get round to finishing the Bodgerama
First layer is the stain and base coat in light oak followed by two layers of top coat also in light oak. Matilda’s wood was quite light which will have an effect on final result.


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Re: Tung Oil

Post by Panky »

Found the post with the pictures thanks, and realised I've asked the same question before :?


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!969 Commer Jennings Roadranger

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