Home sand blasting

Finishing, Windows, Hoods & Trav wood etc
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bumpy
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Home sand blasting

Post by bumpy »

There seem to be a fair number of kits for sand blasting small components at home.

Can anyone recommend a purchase that sits below the commercial stuff, but is effective for blasting small bits maybe about 1 ft long.


Morris Minor 2 door saloon May 1963 in dove grey. 83,000 on original engine. Known as Moggy Moo.
Heated front and rear screens, disc brakes on front, heater, radio, refitted interior including new seats, electronic ignition.

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cococola
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Re: Home sand blasting

Post by cococola »

Id be intrested in what people say too as I would like a sandblaster sufficient to strip wheels.


:grommit: I LOVE MY MOGGIES :love4:

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bumpy
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Re: Home sand blasting

Post by bumpy »

cococola wrote:
4 days ago
Id be intrested in what people say too as I would like a sandblaster sufficient to strip wheels.
So far this is what I have learnt.

1. The biggest cost of sandblasting is in the compressor unit. The guns are relatively cheap, but require a substantial air flow which means a big storage tank on the compressor.
2. Commercial units are mostly in cabinets, which keeps the sand contained, and allows it to be re-circulated (after filtration). But the sand particles have a finite life as they get blunted, taking away the sharp abrasive edges.
3. Be careful of old but little used compressors. As the air intake is compressed it condenses out moisture so the inside of the tank is wet and prone to rusting. With time this could weaken the tank, with catastrophic consequences. I think commercial compressors, where there are employees operating the kit, have to be tested and certified annually.


Morris Minor 2 door saloon May 1963 in dove grey. 83,000 on original engine. Known as Moggy Moo.
Heated front and rear screens, disc brakes on front, heater, radio, refitted interior including new seats, electronic ignition.

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bumpy
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Re: Home sand blasting

Post by bumpy »

More technical info.

"The best kinds of air compressors to have for sandblasting ​are higher cfm models. A compressor that can produce between 10 CFM - 20 CFM is ideal for smaller sandblasting tasks.

If you want a more powerful sandblasting experience, then a compressor that can produce a CFM somewhere between 18 CFM and 35 CFM is better and for industrial type of sandblasting, look for a compressor that can pump out 50 CFM - 100 CFM+."


"The ideal PSI for running a sandblaster is 90 psi (in most cases) so the minimum CFM for an air compressor, using a small eighth inch nozzle is around 20 CFM, which is quite high and compressors that can produce that type of CFM output are usually pretty expensive.

The air tank will drain quickly when sandblasting and you want to maintain a working PSI when sandblasting somewhere around 50 PSI to 90 PSI. If you drop below 50 PSI, there simply won't be enough pressure to sufficiently take material off then you will have to stop and wait for the compressor to catch up before you can continue blasting."


The minimum requirement of 10 CFM is equivalent to 283 litres per minute. Advertisers tend to use litres per minute to give BIG numbers for their products. Its easy to be fooled :)


Morris Minor 2 door saloon May 1963 in dove grey. 83,000 on original engine. Known as Moggy Moo.
Heated front and rear screens, disc brakes on front, heater, radio, refitted interior including new seats, electronic ignition.

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Custard
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Re: Home sand blasting

Post by Custard »

I had a little look at this too, but haven't actually got anything set up.

I agree with the comments on the tank, but they do all have a water drain.

Also;

It should be possible to couple two smaller compressors together with a suitable Y piece.

The size of parts you want to clean is dictated by the cabinet size, but you can make one of these out of wood if not doing a lot.

If you don't have a cabinet then other PPE will be required anyway.

The size of the airline matters.

I am not 100% sure of the physics but I had a small compressor with an 8mm airline on it and when I bought a wheel gun it was gutless and I still needed the wrecking bar to start some. When i borrowed a 10mm line it worked fine. I expected no difference as the PCL quick connector was the same diameter so I thought that would dictate the airflow, but I was obviously wrong.

If your parts are small and you have a big air tank, but a small compressor is it a big issue to let the tank charge up and take a rest every now and then.

And if you don't have much space the space it all takes up vs how many times you would use it vs convenience doing it at a time to suit you vs paying for somewhere else to do it and going there.

Sean.



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bumpy
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Re: Home sand blasting

Post by bumpy »

Custard wrote:
3 days ago
If you don't have a cabinet then other PPE will be required anyway
Sean.
Initially I plan to use sand blasting in the open air with eye and breathing protection. Do people do this?

Regarding the drain plugs. As far as I understand it people having been taking short cuts by releasing the air pressure from the tanks by the safety valve at the top which doesn’t drain the water and wears the valves. Regulations have now changed, which brought in a modification to stop this practice.


Morris Minor 2 door saloon May 1963 in dove grey. 83,000 on original engine. Known as Moggy Moo.
Heated front and rear screens, disc brakes on front, heater, radio, refitted interior including new seats, electronic ignition.

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Custard
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Re: Home sand blasting

Post by Custard »

Oh yes sandblasting has to be done outside on large things, e.g. Canal Boats or Buildings.

The pictures I have seen they also were wearing a leather hood and apron.

A quick youtube search soon returns typical examples.

Not sure the neighbours would like it though. I thought a cabinet was safer and easier than a pressure fed mask.

I would imagine at that distance the richochet of the sand would still to considerable damage to skin, hence the big apron.

Sean.



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bumpy
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Re: Home sand blasting

Post by bumpy »

Custard wrote:
2 days ago
Oh yes sandblasting has to be done outside on large things, e.g. Canal Boats or Buildings.

The pictures I have seen they also were wearing a leather hood and apron.

A quick youtube search soon returns typical examples.

Not sure the neighbours would like it though. I thought a cabinet was safer and easier than a pressure fed mask.

I would imagine at that distance the richochet of the sand would still to considerable damage to skin, hence the big apron.

Sean.
You make a good point Sean :D


Morris Minor 2 door saloon May 1963 in dove grey. 83,000 on original engine. Known as Moggy Moo.
Heated front and rear screens, disc brakes on front, heater, radio, refitted interior including new seats, electronic ignition.

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bumpy
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Re: Home sand blasting

Post by bumpy »

Wow this is a complex topic.

I've found a compressor at about £350 which has the right specs for advanced DIY. Cabinets are a whole new ball game and even the blasting media see expensive and complex. It seems that silica (sand) is now banned in the UK.

Now I have just discovered there can be both dry and wet blasting. I will keep at it :)

The main riddle at the moment is how do you get the 'sand' into the system. Some guns have a pretty small chamber which gravity feeds, but there must be another way.

Not sure many of these DIY cabinets will take a car wheel.

The budget seems to be very approximately.

Compressor £350
Small cabinet £150
Bag of blasting beads £40
Gun £50
PPE £10


Morris Minor 2 door saloon May 1963 in dove grey. 83,000 on original engine. Known as Moggy Moo.
Heated front and rear screens, disc brakes on front, heater, radio, refitted interior including new seats, electronic ignition.

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bumpy
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Re: Home sand blasting

Post by bumpy »

Found out how the beads get into the air line.

You can buy a cheapish gun that has an inbuild reservoir, bur apparently on the cabinets the beads sit in a reservoir chamber at the bottom. They are then lifted into the air stream by the air (negative) pressure where they are used for blasting and return to the reservoir to be reused until they are too dirty or blunted.

Apparently sand when blasted into fine respirable particles causes silicosis from which you can die. That's why its banned.


Morris Minor 2 door saloon May 1963 in dove grey. 83,000 on original engine. Known as Moggy Moo.
Heated front and rear screens, disc brakes on front, heater, radio, refitted interior including new seats, electronic ignition.

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Custard
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Re: Home sand blasting

Post by Custard »

I thought you could get the long gloves and circular surrounds so you could make a cabinet the size you want.

You wont be blasting direct at the window so sensible thickness perspex should do or even a second hand/scrap double glazed panel from a long thin window.

I thought you could then make a cabinet to suit, i.e. square for a wheel or long and thin if doing spring leaves or bumper bars.

As you are not deliberately trying to wear the cabinet away and the blast is focused I reckoned you could do it with 3/4 ply or OSB.

Things have moved on a bit since i first started looking as now if you are not trying to shift paint others have had success with;

a) ultrasonic cleaners for small alloy parts like carbs and distributor bodies.

b) various mild acids for rusty steel.

That's partly why I haven't done anything yet. I have a big compressor I acquired broken which will be suitable once fixed and should do spraying as as well, but I am not sure even with a few garden furniture things to clean that its not more efficient for me to just get stuff with paint on sandblasted elsewhere.

Sean.



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bumpy
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Re: Home sand blasting

Post by bumpy »

After thinking long and hard, I'm giving up on this purchase. Cost rapidly passed £500, for something I will only use occasionally.

So its a potent paint stripper and electric drill with wire brushes for me. :)


Morris Minor 2 door saloon May 1963 in dove grey. 83,000 on original engine. Known as Moggy Moo.
Heated front and rear screens, disc brakes on front, heater, radio, refitted interior including new seats, electronic ignition.

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