Starter switch

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bumpy
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Starter switch

Post by bumpy »

Every month or so my starter switch goes dead - both on the pull knob and when pushing under the bonnet.
I have tried to get switch cleaner around the moveable spindle, without success.

Before writing it off I intend to drill a 1mm hole in the front plastic panel and squirt switch cleaner through that.

Any observations?

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Morris Minor 2 door saloon May 1963 in dove grey. 83,000 on original engine. Known as Moggy Moo.
Heated front and rear screens, disc brakes on front, heater, radio, refitted interior including new seats, electronic ignition.

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Mecanglais
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Re: Starter switch

Post by Mecanglais »

I've never had one apart. Theoretically your way should work. I would drill two holes, at sort of 11 o'clock and 1 o'clock to the centre pin.

Best to disconnect the battery before doing this just in case!

I take it that you know for certain that it is the solenoid itself playing up and not dirty connections on the solenoid or the starter itself?

You can diagnose what is happening with a multimeter. The next time it doesn't want to play ball, you can check continuity with the button pressed, and check continuity between each post and the steel button on the solenoid to see where the issue lies.

Really the answer is to change the switch but they are a bit of a faff to change, and I agree that keeping the old one will last better than a new one (most likely).



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bumpy
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Re: Starter switch

Post by bumpy »

Mecanglais wrote:
1 month ago
I've never had one apart. Theoretically your way should work. I would drill two holes, at sort of 11 o'clock and 1 o'clock to the centre pin.

Best to disconnect the battery before doing this just in case!

I take it that you know for certain that it is the solenoid itself playing up and not dirty connections on the solenoid or the starter itself?

You can diagnose what is happening with a multimeter. The next time it doesn't want to play ball, you can check continuity with the button pressed, and check continuity between each post and the steel button on the solenoid to see where the issue lies.

Really the answer is to change the switch but they are a bit of a faff to change, and I agree that keeping the old one will last better than a new one (most likely).
Good tip about checking continuity first. Will put my multimeter in the car :)


Morris Minor 2 door saloon May 1963 in dove grey. 83,000 on original engine. Known as Moggy Moo.
Heated front and rear screens, disc brakes on front, heater, radio, refitted interior including new seats, electronic ignition.

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Mecanglais
Formally known as chesney
France
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Location: France

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Re: Starter switch

Post by Mecanglais »

In fact, before committing to drlling holes (not that that won't work), you could always disconnect the battery, soak the plunger in contact cleaner and push it into the solenoid half a dozen times, the cleaner should hopefully find its way around from there.



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bumpy
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Re: Starter switch

Post by bumpy »

Mecanglais wrote:
1 month ago
In fact, before committing to drlling holes (not that that won't work), you could always disconnect the battery, soak the plunger in contact cleaner and push it into the solenoid half a dozen times, the cleaner should hopefully find its way around from there.
I did try this last time it failed by building a little reservoir around it with Blu Tack and filling it with contact cleaner for a few hours. It failed again about a month later, so I guess it didn't work. Perhaps there is a seal in there.


Morris Minor 2 door saloon May 1963 in dove grey. 83,000 on original engine. Known as Moggy Moo.
Heated front and rear screens, disc brakes on front, heater, radio, refitted interior including new seats, electronic ignition.

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Mecanglais
Formally known as chesney
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Re: Starter switch

Post by Mecanglais »

I don't 'think' there is a seal in there but there might be.

I would just be wary about drilling the plastic, if it's an original, it's probably Bakelite, which is quite fragile. Perhaps going in through the top, in the tin cover, then sealing the hole afterward with a short self tapper, will work.



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bumpy
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Re: Starter switch

Post by bumpy »

Mecanglais wrote:
1 month ago
I don't 'think' there is a seal in there but there might be.

I would just be wary about drilling the plastic, if it's an original, it's probably Bakelite, which is quite fragile. Perhaps going in through the top, in the tin cover, then sealing the hole afterward with a short self tapper, will work.
Good point about the Bakelite, but I shied away from drilling the metal cover as metal swarf will probably drop into the switch mechanism. It might not end well. :shock:


Morris Minor 2 door saloon May 1963 in dove grey. 83,000 on original engine. Known as Moggy Moo.
Heated front and rear screens, disc brakes on front, heater, radio, refitted interior including new seats, electronic ignition.

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Mecanglais
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Re: Starter switch

Post by Mecanglais »

True enough, maybe a greased, sharp, drill bit will get you out of trouble.



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TDV102
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Re: Starter switch

Post by TDV102 »

£28.70 for a new replacement. I'd replace it. In the old days a couple of quid from the local scrappie.



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bumpy
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Re: Starter switch

Post by bumpy »

TDV102 wrote:
1 month ago
£28.70 for a new replacement. I'd replace it. In the old days a couple of quid from the local scrappie.
Its not the money, its 10 minutes of 'drill and squirt', verses a couple of hours ripping out the glove box and grovelling under the dash.

Equally, I'm a scientist, so the experiment with drill and squirt makes it interesting as a cure for others. :D


Morris Minor 2 door saloon May 1963 in dove grey. 83,000 on original engine. Known as Moggy Moo.
Heated front and rear screens, disc brakes on front, heater, radio, refitted interior including new seats, electronic ignition.

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