Rocker cover gunk cleanup.

Side valve, 803, 948, 1098., 1275 and Vizard mods

Rocker cover gunk cleanup.

Postby bluegrass » Mon May 13, 2013 5:06 pm

I just took my first rocker cover off. My 1098 saloon had a fair amount of mayonnaise in there. I'm not sure of the cars driving history because I only got it in January, but am assuming it had many short journeys. I was surprised by how much general gunk there was in the cover. I enclose a picture of the rockers just to check what people think.  It seems a little dirty in there, but I'm not sure if that is normal or not. My oil filter light just came on, so I will be doing an oil filter and oil change. Does it look ok in there, and Whats the best way to clean the cover and engine gasket area to accept the new gasket? Many thanks for any help.


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Postby MM » Mon May 13, 2013 5:28 pm

This usually is a sign of a car that's only used for very short journeys in cold weather, as the engine never heats up enough to burn it off.

It can be cleaned with Gunk, petrol or similar degreasant.

Wow, your oil filter light actually works!!! :shock: I thought these were a gimmick, as they deleted it on the later 1098cc cars, but left the wire dangling down near the distributor.
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Postby bluegrass » Mon May 13, 2013 5:38 pm

Hi, and thanks for the advice. Yes, it seems to work. Its a 1968 car, so was it the very late cars that stopped using it?
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Postby Davidward » Mon May 13, 2013 5:43 pm

You could try putting flushing oil in the engine and running it at tick over. then draining I wonder if the oil has been changed regularly ( or at all!).  Keep changing the oil far more than needed every 1k miles or so and get it hot.  Change the stat to 88 degrees and a 10lb rad cap.  that will warm things up and also get's the heater working much better.

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Postby bluegrass » Mon May 13, 2013 5:51 pm

Hi David.

I just uploaded a super sized picture to my post above to show the rockers in better detail. You may be right about the oil changes. So I will try what you suggest, and run the flushing oil. Is it a straightforward job, drain old oil, add flushing oil , run at tick over for a while , then drain and add fresh normal oil and filter? Would you replace the oil every 1000k miles generally?

Thanks. ( I have another thread on noise and vibration here if you have the time. ) :wink:

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Postby Davidward » Mon May 13, 2013 5:56 pm

I'm wondering if taking the car from Nantwich somewhere warmer has shocked the car?
You can't change oil too frequently. A friend has a mini 1275 which has done 150k on the original engine and he has changed the opil every 1000 miles.  the engine is spotless and it's 25 years old and runs beautifully. every 3k would be a good idea. DAvid
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Postby bluegrass » Mon May 13, 2013 5:59 pm

I'm not sure about the climate, but maybe it felt more at home up there?

That's good to know, I will try the flushing and then be very liberal with oil changes!

The thing that I'm happy about is that at least the compression tests were good.
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Postby bmcecosse » Mon May 13, 2013 8:54 pm

Don't bother with 'flushing' - just change the oil and filter, when the engine is HOT.  And DO NOT fit a 10 lb rad cap......  That has NO effect on engine temperature.  The 88 stat is recommended for winter use - but may be too high in summer (if it ever arrives..)
 









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Postby bluegrass » Mon May 13, 2013 9:01 pm

Ok thanks 'bmcecosse'. I am also going to fit an oil pressure gauge to keep an eye on things. I have another thread open at the moment on some noise and vibration issues. Any thoughts much appreciated.
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Postby MM » Mon May 13, 2013 10:04 pm

bluegrass:93549 wrote:Hi, and thanks for the advice. Yes, it seems to work. Its a 1968 car, so was it the very late cars that stopped using it?


Yes, they fitted it from 1964 up until around 1969, I believe. Certainly, my 1970 Traveller doesn't have the sensor on the oil filter, though it does have the wire hanging down beside the distributor, and if you earth it, the warning light comes on. Quite why they stopped fitting them, I don't know - maybe they gave too many false warnings.

You would have thought they would have stopped fitting the bulb as well, to save a bob or two...
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Postby Davidward » Mon May 13, 2013 10:18 pm

bmcecosse:93570 wrote:Don't bother with 'flushing' - just change the oil and filter, when the engine is HOT.  And DO NOT fit a 10 lb rad cap......  That has NO effect on engine temperature.  The 88 stat is recommended for winter use - but may be too high in summer (if it ever arrives..)


With Due respect Roy I offer my opinions and you are welcome to your own.

It is advisable to fit a higher poundage cap when you raise the temperature rating of the Thermostat.  it is also required for 1300 engines ( which this is not)  I'm running a 92 degree stat in my car all year round and I think that my car is used harder than most on the forum and I don't have problems or any mayonaisse.

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Postby bluegrass » Wed May 15, 2013 6:35 pm

Ok, here is another list of first time jobs I carried out today. Limited funds and enthusiasm drive me on. I cleaned out the rocker cover with Gunk. It was so blocked that the pipe to the air filter was completely blocked and the air filter absolutely black. I stuck the gasket down on the rocker cover side and left it unglued on the other  and refitted. Changed air filter, oil and oil filter ( I admit I left the original oil filter seal in this time around). I cleaned out the carb (float chamber) as best i could without removing the whole thing from the car. Took the piston and jet out, cleaned all that and re-fitted. I adjusted the mixture. The sparks are now grey after a longish run compared to them sooting up badly before. I had to turn the adjuster a lot further up. I took it to a garage up the road when arranging an mot on another car. He has had morris minors in the past. He had a look, and listened to the engine. He thinks the tappets are a little noisy and could do with being adjusted, but not badly so. The timing chain is a little noisy too, but nothing worth worrying about. That just leaves a strange noisy vibration I have at 40mph and beyond. I'm posting about that in this post.

about7443.html

Thanks for all the help. Slowly, I'm picking up more knowledge and trying more repairs to the car.
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Postby bmcecosse » Wed May 15, 2013 6:50 pm

Even a 92 degree stat does not make the water boil - and the higher pressure cap is only required to suppress boiling.  Fitting it to an older engine, with older hoses etc is just asking for a burst hose IF the pressure ever rises.  A 4 lb cap is more than  adequate for a Minor - even a 1300...  Why would it be different?
 









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Postby Davidward » Wed May 15, 2013 7:13 pm

bmcecosse:93697 wrote: Why would it be different?


Ask British Leyland, they issued millions of cars with them. Minor Centre Birmingham kit includes a 10lb. cap.  Hoses should be checked for condition...

Perhaps you could kindly justify why you shouldn't fit an 88degre stat as you shouted (used capital letters). it makes the heater work better. petrol is better these days and doesn't need such a cool engine. the higher temperature is better for combustion eficiency. The Metro ran them at this temperature. It helps the specific fuel economy as listed in old books on 'A' series engine tuning such as David Vizard's book which is 28 years old now.

You don't run your car with 2 star petrol and lousy oil...

'A' series tuning has moved on since the Morris Minor was built...

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