Removing oil sludge - 15W40 or 20W50 as flusher???

Side valve, 803, 948, 1098., 1275 and Vizard mods
Hi all - got the oil filter off the car yesterday (vain attempt to fit a spin on filter kit - long story) and found the bottom of it contained some heavy sludge. Plan now is to drop the sump and give that and the strainer a good clean then fit a new filter/oil run for a couple of short journeys then ditch the oil/filter for a new set.

Question - I have a gallon of 20W50 (bought for the car) to hand and also one of 15W40 (spare Land Rover blood) - is there any problem in using the latter as a flushing oil - say maybe 100 - 200 miles??

My assumptions are that the 20W50 would be the better oil for use in the car (1098cc) and that's based on what I've read on here & t'other side.

Thanks

Graeme
1955 Split Screen Saloon with later 1098 engine & type 9 gearbox
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yes it may work, but you may end up with more rattles then you want :roll:
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woodywoodchipper
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As woody says use 20w50 it's cheap enough. B&Q have Daytona oil back in stock at a good price. I have used it for a few years without any issues.
http://www.diy.com/departments/carlube- ... 321_BQ.prd
Rick1963
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Thanks for the advice - being a legendary tight *rse I see the 25 litres of 15w40 sitting there and want to use it - like you say though the proper stuff is not that expensive.

Unfortunately B&Q bailed out of this part of Wales some time ago (nearest one now is 50 miles away) but I can get 20w50 delivered for the same price due to the fact that Amazon will deliver out here under their 'Prime' system (and being Scottish I get a £1 voucher if I choose 2-3 day delivery :D ). Thanks for the link though.

New gaskets ordered so will drop the sump when it is not raining and see what's in there, I have to admit that this is the worst sludge I've seen in an engine ever and I do wonder why folks will pay ££££ for a fancy gee-gaw and not get an oil/filter change done, mind you, most cars we've bought in the last decade or so have always been lacking in basic tlc (and that often seems to include tyres !).

Thanks again

Graeme
1955 Split Screen Saloon with later 1098 engine & type 9 gearbox
a rolling r********
GraemeT
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I would change your oil with 20w50 and filter then change it again after 500miles. My oils quite dirty so il be changing it after 500miles then hopefully itll be ok, if not il change it again. Im only planning on 1000-1500 miles between changes anyway. As its only a second car so will take nearly a year to cover these miles. Im not dropping my sump as the sump gasket is good as this can cause problems trying to reseal it. Im guessing sludge collects in the oil filter housing? If you think it is all sludged up your better off dropping the sump as the oil pick up could become blocked.
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greendefender123
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Hi - I've not yet looked at the sump gaskets in situ but I do have fingers crossed that they are not just a huge wodge of mastic/Hylomar stuff, this Moggie has an oil pressure gauge fitted which 'suggests' that we still have a decent oil pressure on the engine but - given that the speedo is 33% out then maybe that one is too? Which way? :(

My take on the 1098 is that swapping out the oil/filter every couple of thousand miles when the oil+filter cost is less than £15 is a no-brainer - the other vehicles here at the moment want synthetic (expensive) oils that make my wallet bleed. Having said that they have an alleged 20,000 mile service interval (yeah - right) so I just bite the bullet and change the oil at 10,000 on those.

I do think that I will drop the sump just to see what's in there - maybe I'll live to regret it as every cork gasketted sump that I've touched on older cars seems to be warped and leak like a ***** after being dropped, the crank seals as I recall on my other BMC cars were a particular PITA to fit but when the car is (hopefully) a 'keeper' then it's time worth spending.

Until the gaskets arrive I can while away the times on that fecked ball joint.... :?
1955 Split Screen Saloon with later 1098 engine & type 9 gearbox
a rolling r********
GraemeT
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Ahh you replied when i was. Yeah sounds like you need to drop your sump. Pop some pictures up when you do as it'll be interesting to see the sludgy oil and will encourage others to change theres. Even in my astra with its 20k-30k service intervals i still change the oil every 6k as its about £20 for oil and a filter when on offer. As its a "fancy" over complicated diesel its worth me doing. Il probably change the moggie oil once a year once im happy with the cleanliness of it. Iv had the head off and its clean inside the combustion chamber as its been run unleaded even in the 80s. No real wear aswell so hoping this engine will last a long time. Id keep the 15w40 for your landy tho iv changed to 10w40 semi in mine as this seems to be the cheapest oil these days and i find it starts better aswell. Mines a 200tdi defender.

Cheers Steve
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greendefender123
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OK - parts question.... gaskets etc. arrived today but it's hissing down outside so the job will need to wait. However in the package are two sump plug washers that I ordered - the vendor's website states 10M119 for that part but the results are teeny tiny washers (1/2" or so) not the whacking big 2p piece sized things I was expecting.

The ones I have are labelled 803/948/1098 Sump Plug Washer though.

Are there two possible sizes for the sump plug in the A Series engine?
1955 Split Screen Saloon with later 1098 engine & type 9 gearbox
a rolling r********
GraemeT
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If the engine ever had straight weight oil without detergent as was the original specification, the sludge is left over from that time period. When I was still running the older oil, there would be sludge in the filter to clean out. This was after a rebuild and cleaning the years of sludge in the bottom of the sump. The filter canister is much easier to clean since using detergent oil. 15w40 and 20w50 have very similar viscosity enhancers. Unless your engine is already loose and rattling once warm, the 15w40 will be fine and actually a bit better for cold start ups.
emjay
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Huzzah! - Dry weather - OK, sump dropped and was found to be quite clean - no sludge (not sure if that's a relief or a frustration after all the work). Put it all back together, filled up the oil and fitted new filter (interested to find there was no sealing ring in the upper part of the filter body - explains why the thing was bolted up so tight).

Happy Bunny here also found 5 litres of 20W50 in a Mole Valley Farmers container that he must have bought at least seven years ago - so I now have two spare filters & oil for the changes.

Engine feels/sounds a little happier/quieter too - that may just be a qualitative judgement though :D

Happy days :D
1955 Split Screen Saloon with later 1098 engine & type 9 gearbox
a rolling r********
GraemeT
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Posts: 56
Joined: Thu Jul 13, 2017 3:37 pm

Wales (wl) UK Scotland (.j)

Well done, glad it wasnt sludged up. Iv just changed my oil after doing 600miles. It came out dirty but not really bad so i think il be ok with normal changes now.
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greendefender123
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Only did about 20 miles yesterday so what we have here is still looking quite pristine - I had forgotten how 'gloopy' the older style oils are (most the stuff here now is 5W30 or 5W40) and I will admit failing to allow sufficient time to allow it to drain down through the rocker cover before topping up the funnel - slight staining on the concrete to say the least.
1955 Split Screen Saloon with later 1098 engine & type 9 gearbox
a rolling r********
GraemeT
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Posts: 56
Joined: Thu Jul 13, 2017 3:37 pm

Wales (wl) UK Scotland (.j)


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