Engine Swap and breather

Side valve, 803, 948, 1098., 1275 and Vizard mods

Re: Engine Swap and breather

Postby Corn22 » Fri Sep 30, 2016 5:36 pm

Might see if I can test it on my compressor
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Re: Engine Swap and breather

Postby Panky » Fri Sep 30, 2016 5:41 pm

Yes, if you've got a known good gauge to compare it too all will be revealed. Be careful though messing with high pressure when it could be showing a false low.
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Re: Engine Swap and breather

Postby Custard » Fri Sep 30, 2016 10:21 pm

Given the time to put it in and try it and the time to look at a head gasket I would be tempted to take the head off.

Just in case the valves were sticking you can take the rocker cover off and check they are working ok but if the readings are even then I would have thought it is unlikely all valves are sticking.

You should really check the tappets to make sure they are set correctly too as a badly adjusted one would also give a misleading reading. Though again for equal readings they would all have to be the same.

If the gaskets gone between cylinders 1 and 2 and between 3 and 4 you will get low readings that are identical on adjacent cylinders.

When I worked in a garage we reckoned there was no point trying to start anything below 100 and most seemed to need nearer 120.

I presume it is a good battery and it is turning over well.

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Re: Engine Swap and breather

Postby Corn22 » Sat Oct 01, 2016 11:20 am

Just looking at the workshop manual and Haynes manual and they have different orders for loosening the head nuts, which one should I use ? Thanks
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Re: Engine Swap and breather

Postby Panky » Sat Oct 01, 2016 12:49 pm

I would stick to the info in the original manual, Haynes can be a bit hit and miss.
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Re: Engine Swap and breather

Postby Corn22 » Sat Oct 01, 2016 1:44 pm

Well I have taken the head off which I have never done before. Swapped plenty of whole engines in various cars but never been brave enough to take one to bits. I have took lots of pictures so hopefully you can give me advice on what to do. Looks like I need to change the head as there is some rust on it. The pistons have got gunk on the top so don't know weather they would need replacing or cleaning. Never done anything with engines so find it quite intimidating. All the pics are here http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/quendil22/library/Morris (Ignore the rusty old traveller pics as that another one i have).

Pics of the head

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Engine Block and Piston tops
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Piston tops after a quick wipe
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Re: Engine Swap and breather

Postby Corn22 » Sat Oct 01, 2016 2:33 pm

Bit of elbow grease and an oily rag and the piston tops now look like this

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Now the couple of black spot left would I be ok to use a little bit of degreaser on them?
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Re: Engine Swap and breather

Postby Panky » Sat Oct 01, 2016 3:21 pm

The pistons look great after the clean up, use a bit of green scouring pad and degreaser to get the last of the gunk off. What are the bores like, they look good from the pictures, run your fingernail up the bores to see if there's any wear ridge near the top. The head will clean up but the valves look like they've recessed a bit so you may need new seats and valves, that could account for the low compression readings.
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Re: Engine Swap and breather

Postby Corn22 » Sat Oct 01, 2016 3:29 pm

Panky wrote:The pistons look great after the clean up, use a bit of green scouring pad and degreaser to get the last of the gunk off. What are the bores like, they look good from the pictures, run your fingernail up the bores to see if there's any wear ridge near the top. The head will clean up but the valves look like they've recessed a bit so you may need new seats and valves, that could account for the low compression readings.


I can't see any scores on the bores and they feel smooth but will do the fingernail trick.
I was thinking of getting an unleaded exchange head. I have two other heads that are a bit worse for wear which hopefully they would accept as an exchange part. Do you know how picky they are with exchange parts (thinking of ESM as I use them mostly). If I can keep the original head I can then use it to practice fitting new seats and valves.
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Re: Engine Swap and breather

Postby Panky » Sat Oct 01, 2016 3:55 pm

Fitting new seats is really a machine shop job as they will need re-cutting to make sure the faces are true to the valve face and new guides should be fitted at the same time, it can be done I guess but it's not a job I've done myself. I've fitted new guides which is an easy enough job as long as you have the proper drift to get the old ones out and fit new. If you are going for a re-con head then you may as well get the 'unleaded' one but if you find a good second hand original then I wouldn't bother unless you intend doing a lot of miles or are towing a caravan.
I'm sure as long as your exchange head is not cracked or the faces corroded then they should accept it, I think the phrase they use is 'a serviceable exchange unit' Just make sure the new head price includes valves, springs etc
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Re: Engine Swap and breather

Postby Corn22 » Sat Oct 01, 2016 4:41 pm

The ESM heads appear to have all the valves and spring but will ask them Monday. Will clean up the old head tomorrow. Feels like a good day for an engine novice :D
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Re: Engine Swap and breather

Postby woodywoodchipper » Sat Oct 01, 2016 5:57 pm

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When its done its done (for now)
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Re: Engine Swap and breather

Postby Corn22 » Sat Oct 01, 2016 6:13 pm

Thanks
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Re: Engine Swap and breather

Postby Corn22 » Sun Oct 02, 2016 11:33 am

More cleaning and pictures. Hoping these will be ok now. Will order a new head tomorrow

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Re: Engine Swap and breather

Postby Panky » Sun Oct 02, 2016 3:37 pm

Shiny :)
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