Skimmed 12G940 on 1098.

Side valve, 803, 948, 1098., 1275 and Vizard mods

Re: Skimmed 12G940 on 1098.

Postby Monty-4 » Sat Apr 16, 2016 8:00 pm

Thanks bmc, yes I have a damper fitted.

I went through the full range of adjustment the vernier wheel today and couldn't find a sweet spot - the recent change to pointless ignition may have thrown it pretty far out - amazed it starts at all.
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Re: Skimmed 12G940 on 1098.

Postby bmcecosse » Sun Apr 17, 2016 2:50 pm

The 'vernier' amounts to little - -you need to gently/slowly turn the whole dizzy body.
 









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Re: Skimmed 12G940 on 1098.

Postby Monty-4 » Sun Apr 17, 2016 3:37 pm

Is that safe to do while the car is running? I had a friend who nearly killed himself on a HT lead a while back (was a TVR, mind).
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Re: Skimmed 12G940 on 1098.

Postby MM » Sun Apr 17, 2016 3:40 pm

Yes, just slacken the dizzy clamp bolt enough to allow the dizzy to be turned fairly easily, but not too easily. Wear rubber/latex gloves if worried about a potential shock, or be careful to grip the dizzy by its base and not the cap/HT leads. ;)

Also, try and do it in dry weather and ideally, stand on an insulating material, e.g., plastic matting, to further reduce any risk of shock - not usually a problem as long as you're wearing shoes with insulating soles, of course, and not attempting to do the job while dancing naked in the rain! :lol:
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Re: Skimmed 12G940 on 1098.

Postby austin » Sun Apr 17, 2016 5:13 pm

You generally get the worst shock if one hand/arm is touching HT and the other hand/arm is touching a metal part of the car. So when there is a chance of shock simply hold hands with yourself. For example hold the dizzie with your right hand, but with your left hand holding your right wrist. This makes it much less likely that a shock will flow through your heart and kill you.
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Re: Skimmed 12G940 on 1098.

Postby bmcecosse » Sun Apr 17, 2016 5:41 pm

It takes a LOT more than that to 'kill' you..... :roll: In any case - if there is a 'shock' to be had - it indicates the HT leads and/or cap are well past their best and no longer providing the level of insulation required. The HT volts has no relation to the 'ground' on which you stand - it is indeed as pointed out above - relative to the body of the vehicle.
 









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Re: Skimmed 12G940 on 1098.

Postby MM » Sun Apr 17, 2016 6:43 pm

True, unless you happen to have an 'anti static/travel sickness' earth strap fitted...
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Re: Skimmed 12G940 on 1098.

Postby Monty-4 » Sun Apr 17, 2016 7:01 pm

Right - I gave the loosened dizzy a good fondle with gloves on. It was quite fun changing the timing with it running and getting immediate feedback although I could feel the power buzzing whenever my wrist bumped a HT lead. :bom:

I found it ran best turned quite a way clockwise - maybe 20° from where it was - and road tested it on my handy hill (a quick blast over the Tay bridge and back). Testament to the upgrades that it could still pull where it was before? :roll:
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Re: Skimmed 12G940 on 1098.

Postby bmcecosse » Sun Apr 17, 2016 8:41 pm

Well done - you really need a decent long hill to test it. Oh and these 'earth/sickness' strips are all in the mind - absolutely useless....
 









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Re: Skimmed 12G940 on 1098.

Postby tickman » Mon Apr 18, 2016 9:36 am

Monty-4 wrote:.....and road tested it on my handy hill (a quick blast over the Tay bridge and back).....

Local then, plenty of hills to choose from round here.

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Re: Skimmed 12G940 on 1098.

Postby Monty-4 » Tue Apr 19, 2016 11:21 am

tickman wrote:
Monty-4 wrote:.....and road tested it on my handy hill (a quick blast over the Tay bridge and back).....

Local then, plenty of hills to choose from round here.


Yup! Although I haven't found my way to any club meetings yet - the Tayside Club seems to be the biggest game in town?

What would the 'optimal' way to hook up my metro oil/water heat exchanger be? At the moment I just have it in loop where the heater was pre-12G940. I have an electric fan so I have clearance to run a sandwich plate above the thermostat...
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Re: Skimmed 12G940 on 1098.

Postby tickman » Tue Apr 19, 2016 1:41 pm

Monty-4 wrote:
tickman wrote:
Monty-4 wrote:.....and road tested it on my handy hill (a quick blast over the Tay bridge and back).....

Local then, plenty of hills to choose from round here.


Yup! Although I haven't found my way to any meets club meetings yet - the Tayside Club seems to be the biggest game in town?


Yes they do seem to be the biggest but their meeting night in Glamis always falls on an impossible to attend evening for me.

Monty-4 wrote:What would the 'optimal' way to hook up my metro oil/water heat exchanger be? At the moment I just have it in loop where the heater was pre-12G940. I have an electric fan so I have clearance to run a sandwich plate above the thermostat...

I'll leave this question for someone who knows what is what :D
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Re: Skimmed 12G940 on 1098.

Postby bmcecosse » Wed Apr 20, 2016 5:53 pm

I would rig it inline, replacing the pipe from block to filter head - with a sandwich plate you will need longer studs etc etc... And I would want to run cold water through it if you can - not hot water from the cylinder head!
 









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Re: Skimmed 12G940 on 1098.

Postby Monty-4 » Fri Apr 22, 2016 8:08 pm

Finding studs of the correct length and thread is proving difficult as the pair that were used with it previously are far too long. I don't think 3" of washers would be appropriate! :lol:

For water I'm taking the original feed for the heater matrix and feeding it to the back of the cylinder head, very tidy and the heater just steams up the car anyway.

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Re: Skimmed 12G940 on 1098.

Postby Panky » Fri Apr 22, 2016 8:36 pm

But wouldn't that supply be giving you hot water, surely you would need one drawn through from the bottom of the rad rather than one from the hottest part of the cooling system.
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