Lolmechanic

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Postby alex_holden » Sat Apr 05, 2008 9:03 pm

I've been working on Lintilla today...

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Postby Orkney » Sat Apr 05, 2008 9:15 pm

Bloody hell !!!!
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Postby bmcecosse » Sat Apr 05, 2008 9:18 pm

Yes - nasty!  You'll be needing a roll-over jig to sort that out!
 









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Postby alex_holden » Sat Apr 05, 2008 9:23 pm

I've got a pit instead. :)
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Postby mrbenn » Sat Apr 05, 2008 9:49 pm

On the one hand  :lol:

On the other  :shock:
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Postby Guest » Sat Apr 05, 2008 9:51 pm

Bodgetastic for sure, welding onto rust not a great idea  :shock:
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Postby alex_holden » Sat Apr 05, 2008 9:56 pm

MoggyTech wrote:Bodgetastic for sure, welding onto rust not a great idea  :shock:


They hadn't even removed the old paint never mind the rust. The welds were smothered with sealant and and underseal to hide just how bad they were. The patch can't have been adding any strength to the member at all. At least the complete lack of penetration made it very easy to remove - I thought I was going to have to grind it off but a screwdriver and mallet did the trick.

The good news was that the suspension dismantled remarkably easily, on the other hand it looks like the bushes all need replacing.
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Postby mrbenn » Sat Apr 05, 2008 9:59 pm

Shine on  :roll:
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Postby Guest » Sat Apr 05, 2008 10:05 pm

I really don't know what people are trying to do with 'repairs' like that. The shape of the patch looks reasonable so why finish with the worst welding possible? That centre crossmember is a vital load bearing area, taking the weight of two torsion bars and their kinetic shock energy, and acting as the centre bracing for the middle of the car.

Still looking on the bright side, the bodges should be easy to remove, just sneeze close to the car  :D
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Postby alex_holden » Sun Apr 06, 2008 8:52 am

MoggyTech wrote:I really don't know what people are trying to do with 'repairs' like that.


Hide the rot from the MOT tester...

The shape of the patch looks reasonable so why finish with the worst welding possible?


I don't think it was that reasonable because the U shape (with four layers of rotten metal sandwiched inside it) just trapped water inside, and even if it had been welded well it wouldn't do anything to strengthen the place where the small end of the torsion lever arm bolts on. Because the floor above that area was completely rotten too, there was very little to stop the arm coming up through the floor.

The crossmember isn't too bad closer to the centre of the car. I was hoping to just tidy up the patches and repair the floor for the time being, but after seeing how useless the patch was and what was underneath it I think I'm going to have to cut out and replace the crossmember end with a proper repair section now, plus as you can see in the first picture part of the sill has been badly patched too. Annoyingly the other side of the car has been subject to the same bodgery.
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Postby Orkney » Sun Apr 06, 2008 9:12 am

Think the lady who gave the car away would freak if she could see that ! Given she was none to happy with the repair work which had been done to date that could be seen....
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Postby smeggy » Sun Apr 06, 2008 9:25 am

sometime i see things and think ,people should have to do a welding test before being allowed to own a welder, this is one of those occasions,  got a few wrong looking bits on little dave, so ive bought a couple of inner wing(rear) sections so i can cut out all the rot and replace it.     Still alex yer just gonna love welding that lot up :)
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Postby Chickenjohn » Sun Apr 06, 2008 10:53 am

I've seen some bad repairs on the cars I've got but that really takes the biscuit. It looks like they just held the patch over the hole and brazed or soldered it on, or used the Mig and forgot to turn on the gas or lap welded mostly onto the patch having little penetration to the body of the car because as you said they did not remove rust/paint.

I agree, new crossmember ends required and new steel butt welded in to replace the rotten bits of floor that meet the crossmember ends. Sadly, this work may even have been done by a garage, I've seen something almost as bad done (but not quite) by a Morris Minor specialist (in deference to the wishes of the board owners, I will not name the specialist except by PM).

BTW- tool fetish alert-, to save your nice screwdrivers, I have found a Clark punch and chisel set and pry bars good for chiseling/levering off crap repairs like this.

I like the deliberately poor spelling hinting at the intelligence level of the previous repairer.
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Postby Compo_Simmonite » Sun Apr 06, 2008 11:37 am

alex_holden wrote:They hadn't even removed the old paint never mind the rust.


We had a Metro that someone ran into the door so it needed replacing.
I took it to main agent for the work, who were also Jag agents, thinking I'd get a decent job done.
The front valance had a few rust spots (this was a car that was under 3 years old that we had had from almost new) so I asked if they could anti  stone chip and paint at same time as doing the door change seeing the car was metalic and difficult to touch up with aerosols.
I sandblasted the rust spots and covered them with Waxoyl before taking to dealer for the repairs.
When the car came back it looked great but a couple of years later the antichip started to "lift" in places so I completley removed it.
I was shocked to find the main dealer body shop hadn't even wiped off the waxoyl before spraying on the antichip  :cry:

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Postby Guest » Sun Apr 06, 2008 11:43 am

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The art to trouble free cars, keep them well away from garages. Thing is these days, if you don't have a million quids worth of dedicated ECU test gear, you are stuffed
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